Geology, Vol. 1 [of 3] : $b Geologic processes and their resultsSalisbury, Rollin D.
Science
Geology, Vol. 1 [of 3] : $b Geologic processes and their results
Salisbury, Rollin D.
Geology
So long as the velocity of the wind remains constant, the velocity
of the current which the wind-waves generate is less than that of
the wind, and there is always a differential movement of the water,
each layer moving faster than the one beneath. The friction is thus
distributed through the whole vertical column of the water in movement,
and is even borne in part by the sea-bottom if the movement extends
so far down. The greater the depth, the smaller the share of the
friction each layer of water is called upon to bear, and the greater
the velocity of the current generated by a given wind. But while the
wave-motion extends indefinitely downward, the lower limit of agitation
effective in erosion is soon reached. Engineering operations have shown
that submarine structures are little disturbed at depths of five
meters in the Mediterranean and eight meters in the Atlantic.[153] On
the other hand, débris as coarse as gravel, which is transported by
rolling on the bottom, is not infrequently carried out to depths of
50 feet, and sometimes even to 150 feet. Fine sediment, like silt, is
disturbed at still greater depths, for ripple-marks, which indicate
agitation of the water, are said to have been found at depths of 100
fathoms.[154]
When a wave approaches a shelving shore, its habit is changed. The
velocity of the undulation is diminished, while the velocity of the
advancing particle of water in the crest is increased; the wave-length,
measured from trough to trough, is diminished, and the wave-height is
increased; the crest becomes acute, with the front steeper than the
back, and these changes culminate in the breaking of the crest, when
the undulation proper ceases. Waves of a given height break in about
the same depth of water, and the line along which incoming waves break
is the line of _breakers_. The line of breakers is in deeper water and
farther from shore when the waves are strong than when they are weak.
Waves are reported to have broken in 100 fathoms of water,[155] but
this must be regarded as very exceptional. The return of the water
thrown forward in the crests of waves is accomplished by a current
along the bottom called the _undertow_. The undertow is sensibly normal
to the coast when uninfluenced by oblique waves, and is efficient in
removing the products of erosion.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account