Geology, Vol. 1 [of 3] : $b Geologic processes and their resultsSalisbury, Rollin D.
Science
Geology, Vol. 1 [of 3] : $b Geologic processes and their results
Salisbury, Rollin D.
Geology
Since the incoming wave affects water which is at the same time under
the influence of the undertow, it gives to that current a pulsating
character, for the wave-motion sometimes supports and sometimes
opposes the undertow, and thus endows it with a higher transporting
power than belongs to its mean velocity. Near the breaker-line, the
oscillations communicated by the wave may momentarily overcome and
even reverse the movement of the undertow. Inside the breaker-line,
irregular oscillation only is communicated. The broken wave-crest,
dashing forward, overcomes the undertow and throws it back, and the
water returns as a simple current descending a slope. The power of the
undertow diminishes rapidly from the breaker-line outward as the depth
of the water increases.
[Illustration: +Fig.+ 300.—Diagram showing relative directions of wave,
undertow, and shore-current.]
When waves advance on the shore obliquely, a shore-current is developed
as illustrated by Fig. 300, where _ab_ represents the direction of the
incoming wave, _bc_ the direction of the littoral current, and _bd_ the
direction of the undertow. Where they strike the borders of land, the
wind-waves, therefore, generate two other movements, the undertow and
the littoral current. Any particle of water near shore may be affected
by any two or by all three of these movements at the same moment. The
effect of littoral current and undertow is to give a particle of water
on which both are working a direction between the two, as _be_. The
effect of other combinations can be readily inferred. These various
combinations are of consequence in the transportation of débris.
WORK OF THE WAVES.
_Erosion._
The general effects of the waves and the other movements to which
they give rise along shores are (1) the wear of the shores; (2) the
transportation for greater or less distances of the products of wear;
and (3) the deposition of the transported materials.
=By waves and undertow.=—In the dash of the waves against the shore,
the chief wear is effected by the impact of the water and of the débris
which the water carries. Lesser results are accomplished in other ways.
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