Geology, Vol. 1 [of 3] : $b Geologic processes and their resultsSalisbury, Rollin D.
Science
Geology, Vol. 1 [of 3] : $b Geologic processes and their results
Salisbury, Rollin D.
Geology
When the land at the margin of the water consists of unconsolidated
material, or of fragmental material but slightly cemented, the impact
of the water is sufficient to displace or erode it. If weak rock be
associated with resistant rock within the zone of wave-work, the
removal of the former may lead to the disruption and fall of the
latter, especially when weak rock is washed out from beneath the
strong. The impact of the water is competent also to break up and
remove rock which was once resistant, but which has been superficially
weakened by changes of temperature. Rock affected by numerous open
joints is likewise attacked with success, for by the dash of the waves
the blocks between the joints may be loosened and literally quarried
out. It may, however, be doubted whether the dash of waves of clear
water, even when their force is many tons to the square foot, has any
appreciable power to wear rock which is thoroughly solid.
[Illustration: +Fig.+ 301.—Angular blocks of rock which have fallen
from the cliff above, as a result of undercutting by the waves.
Grand Island, Lake Champlain. The rock is Black River limestone.
Although from the shore of a lake instead of the sea, the principles
illustrated are the same. (Perry.)]
The impact of the waves is generally reinforced and made effective
by the impact of the detritus they carry. The sand, the pebbles, and
such stones as the waves can move are used as weapons of attack, being
turned against one another and against the shore. Masses of rock too
large for the waves to move (Fig. 301) are worn by the detritus
driven back and forth over them, and in time reduced to movable
dimensions (Fig. 302). They then become the tools of the waves, and in
use, are reduced to smaller and smaller size. Thus bowlders are reduced
to cobbles, cobbles to pebbles, pebbles to sand, and sand to silt.
The silt is readily held in suspension in agitated water, and thus is
carried out beyond the range of breakers, and settles in water so deep
as not to be effectively agitated to its bottom. Thus one generation
of bowlders after another is worn out, and the comminuted products are
carried out from the immediate shore and deposited in deeper water.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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