Geology, Vol. 1 [of 3] : $b Geologic processes and their resultsSalisbury, Rollin D.
Science
Geology, Vol. 1 [of 3] : $b Geologic processes and their results
Salisbury, Rollin D.
Geology
_mature_[163] so far as wave-erosion is concerned. Since coastal lands
are, in general, both heterogeneous and unequally exposed, a mature
coast-line is somewhat irregular. Its maturity is attained when the
lesser exposure in the reëntrants developed in the less resistant
parts, balances the superior exposure of the projections of the more
resistant portions.
Since the conditions of erosion along coasts are constantly, even if
slowly, changing, maturity is constantly being approached, but rarely
reached. Other forces and processes, such as those of aggradation,
vulcanism, and diastrophism, are in operation along coasts, and
their results are sometimes antagonistic to those of the waves. The
horizontal configuration of coasts is, therefore, the result of many
coöperating forces, of which waves are but one. It is, nevertheless,
important to note the goal to which the waves are working, even though
they are continually defeated in their attempt to reach it. Their
immediate goal is an equilibrium of erosion-rate and maturity of
configuration; their final goal is the destruction of the land and the
deposition of its substance in the sea, that is, in a position nearer
the center of gravity of the earth.
_Transportation by Waves._
The material eroded from the shore by the waves in the shaping of the
cliff and terrace is carried away by the joint action of the waves,
undertow, and shore-currents.
The in-coming wave begins to shift material where it begins to drag
bottom, that is, a little outside the line of breakers. From the line
where transportation begins, to the line of breakers, bottom detritus
is shifted shoreward by the waves, while the undertow tends to carry it
back again. Between the breakers and the shore there is also a tendency
for the on-shore movement to carry débris to the water’s edge, and for
the ebbing wave to carry it back again. The result of these opposed
tendencies is to keep sediment in transit between the shore and the
line of breakers. If the in-coming waves have a direction normal to the
shore, the advance and recoil of the water move particles toward and
from the shore, but effect no transfer along the shore; but the results
which waves normal to the shore would achieve are always modified by
other waves and by littoral currents.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account