Geology, Vol. 1 [of 3] : $b Geologic processes and their resultsSalisbury, Rollin D.
Science
Geology, Vol. 1 [of 3] : $b Geologic processes and their results
Salisbury, Rollin D.
Geology
If the in-coming wave is oblique to the shore, it shifts material in
its own direction. The transfer by undertow, taken alone, would be
sensibly normal to the shore, but the effect of the oblique waves is
to slightly modify this direction. There is thus a slow transportation
along shore, even in the absence of steady currents. A great amount
of transportation would be effected in this way, though it would
be carried on at a slow rate. Oblique waves also tend to develop a
definite shore-current (p. 342) which affects both the amount and
direction of the transportation. Any particle in suspension, or in
motion on the bottom as the result of the wave or undertow, is shifted
along shore by the littoral current, which affects the same water
(Fig. 300). By the coöperation of wave- and shore-current, more and
heavier material can be moved than by either alone, and the direction
of movement is more nearly parallel to the shore than that of the
wave. Similarly, by the coöperation of undertow and shore-current,
more and heavier material can be moved than by either alone. The
direction of movement is readily inferred from Fig. 300. The direction
in which débris is shifted by wave- and shore-current is modified by
the undertow, and the direction which would result from undertow and
current is modified by the wave. It is often the waves of storms,
rather than those of the prevailing winds, which determine the
direction of greatest shore transportation.
The waves, the undertow, and the littoral currents work together in
assorting the detritus of the shore. The coarsest parts may be beyond
the power of all but the strongest waves. They accumulate where
agitation is great. Less coarse parts are shifted farther from the site
of greatest agitation, but no materials which are classed as coarse
are carried beyond the depth of sensible movement. The coarse material
which covers the bottom where the agitation of the water at the bottom
is effective, constitutes _shore drift_.
Shore drift is not all derived from the shore by the cutting of the
waves. A part of it is brought to the sea by streams and mingled with
that eroded from the cliffs. The material which is fine enough to be
held in suspension is measurably independent of depth. This is shown
during storms when the water becomes turbid far beyond the line of
breakers, and clears only after the waves have died away.
This sorting of shore drift, effected while it is in transportation, is
often very perfect. The conditions favoring assortment are (1) vigorous
wave-action, (2) prolonged transportation, and (3) a moderate volume of
sediment.[164] The effect of these several conditions will be readily
understood.
Extensive transportation of shore drift of a given degree of coarseness
is favored by (1) strong waves and undertow, (2) continuous currents,
and (3) shallow water, deepening but gradually off shore.
_Deposition by Waves, Undertow, and Shore-currents._[165]
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