I was not happy at Cairo, for I knew nobody there, and the people at the
hotel were, as I thought, uncivil. It seemed to me as though I were
allowed to go in and out merely by sufferance; and yet I paid my bill
regularly every week. The house was full of company, but the company was
made up of parties of twos and threes, and they all seemed to have their
own friends. I did make attempts to overcome that terrible British
exclusiveness, that noli me tangere with which an Englishman arms
himself; and in which he thinks it necessary to envelop his wife; but it
was in vain, and I found myself sitting down to breakfast and dinner, day
after day, as much alone as I should do if I called for a chop at a
separate table in the Cathedral Coffee-house. And yet at breakfast and
dinner I made one of an assemblage of thirty or forty people. That I
thought dull.
But as I stood one morning on the steps before the hotel, bethinking
myself that my throat was as well as ever I remembered it to be, I was
suddenly slapped on the back. Never in my life did I feel a more
pleasant sensation, or turn round with more unaffected delight to return
a friend’s greeting. It was as though a cup of water had been handed to
me in the desert. I knew that a cargo of passengers for Australia had
reached Cairo that morning, and were to be passed on to Suez as soon as
the railway would take them, and did not therefore expect that the
greeting had come from any sojourner in Egypt. I should perhaps have
explained that the even tenor of our life at the hotel was disturbed some
four times a month by a flight through Cairo of a flock of travellers,
who like locusts eat up all that there was eatable at the Inn for the
day. They sat down at the same tables with us, never mixing with us,
having their separate interests and hopes, and being often, as I thought,
somewhat loud and almost selfish in the expression of them. These flocks
consisted of passengers passing and repassing by the overland route to
and from India and Australia; and had I nothing else to tell, I should
delight to describe all that I watched of their habits and manners—the
outward bound being so different in their traits from their brethren on
their return. But I have to tell of my own triumph at Suez, and must
therefore hasten on to say that on turning round quickly with my
outstretched hand, I found it clasped by John Robinson.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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