I was sitting in the cavernous chamber almost mad at the prospect of the
week before me, when I heard a noise as of various feet in the passage
leading from the quadrangle. Was it possible that other human beings
were coming into the hotel—Christian human beings at whom I could look,
whose voices I could hear, whose words I could understand, and with whom
I might possibly associate? I did not move, however, for I was still
hot, and I knew that my chances might be better if I did not show myself
over eager for companionship at the first moment. The door, however, was
soon opened, and I saw that at least in one respect I was destined to be
disappointed. The strangers who were entering the room were not
Christians—if I might judge by the nature of the garments in which they
were clothed.
The door had been opened by the man in an old dressing-gown and slippers,
whom I had seen sitting inside the gate. He was the Arab porter of the
hotel, and as he marshalled the new visitors into the room, I heard him
pronounce some sound similar to my own name, and perceived that he
pointed me out to the most prominent person of those who then entered the
apartment. This was a stout, portly man, dressed from head to foot in
Eastern costume of the brightest colours. He wore, not only the red fez
cap which everybody wears—even I had accustomed myself to a fez cap—but a
turban round it, of which the voluminous folds were snowy white. His
face was fat, but not the less grave, and the lower part of it was
enveloped in a magnificent beard, which projected round it on all sides,
and touched his breast as he walked. It was a grand grizzled beard, and
I acknowledged at a moment that it added a singular dignity to the
appearance of the stranger. His flowing robe was of bright colours, and
the under garment which fitted close round his breast, and then
descended, becoming beneath his sash a pair of the loosest pantaloons—I
might, perhaps, better describe them as bags—was a rich tawny silk.
These loose pantaloons were tied close round his legs, above the ankle,
and over a pair of scrupulously white stockings, and on his feet he wore
a pair of yellow slippers. It was manifest to me at a glance that the
Arab gentleman was got up in his best raiment, and that no expense had
been spared on his suit.
And here I cannot but make a remark on the personal bearing of these
Arabs. Whether they be Arabs or Turks, or Copts, it is always the same.
They are a mean, false, cowardly race, I believe. They will bear blows,
and respect the man who gives them. Fear goes further with them than
love, and between man and man they understand nothing of forbearance. He
who does not exact from them all that he can exact is simply a fool in
their estimation, to the extent of that which he loses. In all this,
they are immeasurably inferior to us who have had Christian teaching.
But in one thing they beat us. They always know how to maintain their
personal dignity.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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