Germany, Bohemia, and Hungary, Visited in 1837. Vol. II — John Shaqi
Germany, Bohemia, and Hungary, Visited in 1837. Vol. IIGleig, G. R. (George Robert)
History
Germany, Bohemia, and Hungary, Visited in 1837. Vol. II
Gleig, G. R. (George Robert)
Austria -- Description and travel; Bohemia (Czech Republic) -- Description and travel; Germany -- Description and travel
Having reposed about half an hour by the margin of a weedy pond, from
which a loud if not an harmonious concert of bull-frogs unceasingly
issued, we buckled on our knapsacks once more, and, by a desperate
effort, reached Stein Jena about three o'clock in the afternoon. It
seldom happens that a natural scene, of which you have been led to form
high expectations, does not disappoint you; yet I am bound in justice
to acknowledge that in the account which he gave of the view from this
point, the interesting curate of Auffenberg used the language of
moderation. Elevated to a height of perhaps two thousand feet, we
beheld across the valley beneath us, hill above hill arise,--all of
them pyramidal, shaggy with forests of pine, beech, and oak, and
interlaced one with another, so as to form the wildest yet most
graceful combinations. The scene, too, was in one striking respect
different from any on which we had yet gazed; namely, that cultivation
was almost entirely kept out of view, because our position was such as
to throw the depths of the plain behind the screen of their overhanging
mountains. It was, indeed, only when we looked to the right, where on a
level with ourselves fields of rye were waving, that the fact of our
not having wandered into some uncleared and uninhabited region was
demonstrated.
Stein Jena itself is a large, straggling, but remarkably neat village,
of which the street is on both sides shaded by rows of trees, and where
the houses can in many instances boast of being planted within the
range of well-kept and tasteful gardens. It was on the top of the
common beyond the village, however, that we paused to obtain our view,
and to make one of those rude sketches which in such situations the
most unpractised hand is induced to attempt; after which we again
pushed forward. Ten minutes' walk carried us over the ridge, and then
what a spectacle burst upon us! A huge plain was at our feet, green
with the most abundant crops of grass and corn, and here and there
broken in upon by a tall conical hill, which rose like a thing of art,
and stood alone in the level. Surrounding the plain on all sides, were
ranges of mountains, those near at hand resembling in their general
character the graceful hills upon which we had just turned our
backs,--those in the distance more precipitous and rugged, and above
all, white along their summits with snow. There needed, in short, but
some sheet of water,--a lake or a river winding through the valley, to
complete such a picture as Stanfield would love to copy, and the
humbler but not less enthusiastic worshipper of nature, gaze upon for
hours unwearied. For not only was there wood and pasturage, hill and
dale, rock and forest, in abundance,--but the haunts of man, without
which a cultivated scene is always incomplete, rose there in abundance.
There lay Hayde,--a compact and apparently well-built town; about three
miles to the right of it, and nestling back its own cliffs, was
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