[Transcriber's Note: Underscores are used as delimiter for _italics_] GIBRALTAR [Illustration: THE ALAMEDA PARADE.] GIBRALTAR BY Henry M. Field _ILLUSTRATED_ LONDON: CHAPMAN AND HALL, Limited. 1889. [_All rights reserved._] TROW'S PRINTING AND BOOKBINDING COMPANY, NEW YORK. To My Friend and Neighbor IN THE BERKSHIRE HILLS, JOSEPH H. CHOATE, WHO FINDS IT A RELIEF NOW AND THEN TO TURN FROM THE HARD LABORS OF THE LAW TO THE ROMANCE OF TRAVEL: I SEND AS A CHRISTMAS PRESENT A STORY OF FORTRESS AND SIEGE THAT MAY BEGUILE A VACANT HOUR AS HE SITS BEFORE HIS WINTER EVENING FIRE. PREFACE. The common tour in Spain does not include Gibraltar. Indeed it is not a part of Spain, for, though connected with the Spanish Peninsula, it belongs to England; and to one who likes to preserve a unity in his memories of a country and people, this modern fortress, with its English garrison, is not "in color" with the old picturesque kingdom of the Goths and Moors. Nor is it on the great lines of travel. It is not touched by any railroad, and by steamers only at intervals of days, so that it has come to be known as a place which it is at once difficult to get to and to get away from. Hence easy-going travellers, who are content to take circular tickets and follow fixed routes, give Gibraltar the go-by, though by so doing they miss a place that is unique in the world--unique in position, in picturesqueness, and in history. That mighty Rock, "standing out of the water and in the water," (as on the day when the old world perished;) is one of the Pillars of Hercules, that once marked the very end of the world; and around its base ancient and modern history flow together, as the waters of the Atlantic mingle with those of the Mediterranean. Like Constantinople, it is throned on two seas and two continents. As Europe at its southeastern corner stands face to face with Asia; at its southwestern it is face to face with Africa: and these were the two points of the Moslem invasion. But here the natural course of history was reversed, as that invasion began in the West. Hundreds of years before the Turk crossed the Bosphorus, the Moor crossed the Straits of Gibraltar. His coming was the signal of an endless war of races and religions, whose lurid flames lighted up the dark background of the stormy coast. The Rock, which was the "storm-centre" of all those clouds of war, is surely worth the attention of the passing traveller. That it has been so long neglected, is the sufficient reason for an attempt to make it better known. CONTENTS. PAGE I. Entering the Straits, 1 II. Climbing the Rock, 12