"Cannon to the right of you,
Cannon to the left of you;"
and what is still more, cannon pointed directly at you, till you almost
feel as if they were aimed with a purpose, and as if they might suddenly
open their mouths, and belch you forth, as the whale did Jonah, though
not upon the land, but into the midst of the sea!
But my story is not ended. It is a good rule in description to keep
the best to the last. The unique feature of Gibraltar--that in which it
surpasses all the other fortresses of Europe, or of the world--is the
Rock Galleries, to which I will now lead the way. These were begun more
than a hundred years ago, during the Great Siege, which lasted nearly
four years, when the inhabitants had no rest day nor night. For, though
the French and Spanish besiegers had not rifled guns, nor any of the
improved artillery of modern times, yet even with their smooth-bore
cannon and mortars they managed to reach every part of the Rock. Bombs
and shells were always flying over the town, now bursting in the air,
and now falling with terrible destruction. So high did these missiles
reach, that even the Rock Gun, on the very pinnacle of Gibraltar,
was twice dismounted. Thus pursued to the very eagle's nest of their
citadel, and finding no rest above ground, the besieged felt that their
only shelter must be in the bowels of the earth, and gangs of convicts
were set to work to blast out these long galleries, which we are now to
visit.
As it is a two miles' walk through them, we may save our steps by riding
as far as the entrance. It is an easy drive up to the Moorish Castle,
built by the African invader who crossed the Straits in 711, and finding
the south of Spain an easy conquest, resolved to establish himself in
the country, and a few years later built this castle on a shoulder of
the hill, where it has stood, frowning over land and sea for nearly
twelve centuries.
Here we present an order from the Military Secretary, and the officer in
charge details a gunner to conduct us through the galleries. The gate
is opened, and we plunge in at once, beginning on the lower level. The
excavation is just like that of a railway tunnel, except that no arches
are required, as it is for the whole distance hewn through the solid
rock, which is self-supporting.
But it is not a gloomy cavern that we are to explore, through which we
can make our way only by the light of torches, for at every dozen yards
there is a large port-hole, by which light is admitted from without, at
all of which heavy guns are mounted on carriages, by which they can be
swung round to any quarter.
After we have passed through one tier, perhaps a mile in length, we
mount to a second, which rises above the other like the upper deck of
an enormous line-of-battle ship. Enormous indeed it must be, if we can
imagine a double-decker a mile long!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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