Very different from this is a garrison town, where a large body of
troops is shut up within the walls of a fortress. Here the military
element is so absorbing and controlling, that it dominates the whole
life of the place. Everything goes by military rule; even the hours of
the day are announced by "gun-fire;" the morning gun gives the exact
minute at which the soldiers are to turn out of their beds, and the last
evening gun the minute at which they are to "turn in," signals which,
though for the soldiers only, the working population of the town find it
convenient to adopt; and which outsiders _must_ regard, since at
these hours the gates are opened and shut; so that a large part of the
non-military part of the population have to "keep step," almost as much
as if they were marching in the ranks, since their rising up and their
lying down, their goings out and their comings in, are all regulated by
the fire of the gun or the blast of the bugle.
The presence of so large a body of troops in Gibraltar gives a constant
animation to its streets, which are alive with red-coats and blue-coats,
the latter being the uniform of the artillery. This is a great
entertainment to an American, to whom such sights in his own country are
rare and strange. A few years ago we had enough of them when we had a
million of men in arms, and the land was filled with the sound of war.
But since the blessed days of peace have come we seldom see a soldier,
so that the parades in foreign capitals have all the charm of novelty.
In fondness for these I am as much "a boy" as the youngest of my
countrymen. Almost every hour a company passes up the street, and never
do I hear the "tramp, tramp," keeping time to the fife and drum, that I
do not rush to the balcony to see the sight, and hear the sounds which
stir even my peaceful breast.
There is nothing that stirs me quite so much as the bugle. Twice a day
it startles us with its piercing blast, as it follows instantly the
gun-fire at sunrise and sunset. But this does not thrill me as when I
hear it blown on some far-off height, and dying away in a valley below,
or answered back from a yet more distant point, like a mountain echo.
One morning I was taking a walk to Europa Point, and as the path leads
upward I came upon several squads of buglers (I counted a dozen men in
one of them) practising their "calls." They were stationed at different
points on the side of the Rock, so that when one company had given the
signal, it was repeated by another from a distance, bugle answering to
bugle, precisely like the echoes in the Alps, to which every traveller
stops to listen. So here I stopped to listen till the last note had died
away in the murmuring sea; and then, as I went on over the hill, kept
repeating, as if it were a spell to call them back again:
"Blow, bugles, blow,
Set the wild echoes flying!"
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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