It was a bright New-Year's morning, that first day of 1887, and how
could we begin the year better than by climbing to the top of the Rock
to get the outlook over land and sea? The ascent is not difficult, for
though the Rock is steep as well as high, a zigzag path winds up its
side, which to a good pedestrian is only a bracing walk, while a lady
can mount a little donkey and be carried to the very top. If you have
to go slowly, so much the better, for you will be glad to linger by
the way. As you mount higher and higher, the view spreads out wider and
wider. Below, the bay is placid as an inland lake, on which ships of
war are riding at anchor, "resting on their shadows," while vessels that
have brought supplies for the garrison are unlading at the New Mole.
Nor is the side of the Rock itself wanting in beauty. Gibraltar is not
a barren cliff; its very crags are mantled with vegetation, and wild
flowers spring up almost as in Palestine. Those who have made a study
of its flora tell us that it has no less than five hundred species of
flowering plants and ferns, of which but one-tenth have been brought
from abroad; all the rest are native. The sunshine of Africa rests in
the clefts of the rocks; in every sheltered spot the vine and fig-tree
flourish, and the almond-tree and the myrtle; you inhale the fragrance
of the locust and the orange blossoms; while the clematis hangs out its
white tassels, and the red geranium lights up the cold gray stone with
rich masses of color.
[Illustration: GENERAL VIEW OF THE ROCK.]
Thus loitering by the way, you come at last to the top of the Rock,
where a scene bursts upon you hardly to be found elsewhere in the world,
since you are literally pinnacled in air, with a horizon that takes in
two seas and two continents. You are standing on the very top of one
of the Pillars of Hercules, the ancient Calpe, and in full view of the
other, on the African coast, where, above the present town of Ceuta,
whose white walls glisten in the sun, rises the ancient Abyla, the Mount
of God. These are the two Pillars which to the ancient navigators set
bounds to the habitable world.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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