The Schafloch, on the Rothhorn, near the Lake of Thoune, is one of the
biggest glacières in the Alps. On the 15th of August, 1895, after early
coffee, made by the _portier_ of the Hotel Belvedère at Interlaken,
I drove to Merligen, on the north shore of the lake, with Emil Von
Allmen, an excellent guide. We left Merligen on foot at a quarter
before seven, and, making no stops on the way, reached the Schafloch at
ten minutes past ten. The path mounts gently up the Wüste Thal, which
higher up is called the Justiz Thal. The track through the latter is
almost on a level, over grassy alps. On the right hand rise the steep,
almost dolomitic, limestone cliffs of the Beatenberg. On the left is
the range of the Rothhorn, with steep grass and forest slopes below,
and limestone cliffs above. The last hour of the walk was up these
slopes, by what Baedeker calls a "giddy path." By leaving the word
"giddy" out, his description is accurate. The cavern is at the base of
the limestone cliff, and the grass slope extends up to it.
The entrance to the Schafloch is at an altitude of 1752 meters: it
is a fine archway, and a low wall is built partly across it. In
front of this, we sat down and consumed our chicken and cheese, and
that best of a traveller's drinks, cold tea. The day was windless,
and when I lighted a cigar, to see whether there was any draught at
the entrance, the smoke rose straight up, showing that the air was
perfectly still. When we were sufficiently cooled off, we entered the
cave. The entrance faces east-south-east, but after about ten meters
the cavern takes a sharp turn to the left, forming a sort of elbow,
and runs about due south, constantly descending in an almost straight
line. For the first eighty meters or so, the floor was covered with
blocks of fallen limestone, among which we had to carefully pick our
way. Then we began to find ice, which, a few meters further on, spread
out across the entire width of the cave, with a gentle slope towards
the left. The surface of the ice was rather soft, and the whole cave
was evidently in a state of thaw. A few scratches with the axe--the
most invaluable friend in an ice cave--were necessary at one place to
improve our footing. It would have been impossible to move here without
a light, and I carried our torch, made of rope dipped in pitch, which
occasionally dropped black reminders on my clothes. We were in the
middle of a great ice sheet to which several fissure columns streamed.
On the right hand a beautiful ice stalactite flowed from the roof to
the floor; it was some five meters high, and perhaps seventy-five
centimeters in diameter, and swelled out slightly at the base. On the
left hand were three or four ice stalagmites, shaped like pyramids or
cones.
[Illustration: AT THE ENTRANCE OF THE SCHAFLOCH.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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