I secured the seat next to the driver and questioned him about the
Eisleithen. Although he had driven on this road for five years, without
visiting the Eisleithen, yet he was positive that they were warm in
winter, but cold in summer. He said more than once: _Desto heisser
der Sommer, desto mehr das Eis_, and in fact was an emphatic exponent
of the notions generally held by peasants, which some _savants_ have
adopted and tried to expound. At Frain, I applied at the little hotel
for a guide, and was entrusted to the care of the hotel boots. He was
an intelligent, talkative youth, but he insisted also that "the hotter
the summer, the more ice there is." However, he was polite, and made
up for any shortcomings by always addressing me as _der gnädige Herr_.
The day was hot, so it took us three-quarters of an hour on foot, along
the valley of the Thaya, to reach the base of the bluff where the
Eisleithen are situated, at an altitude of about four hundred meters.
The hillside is covered with patches of scrubby forest; and towards
the summit, the entire mass of the hill is honey-combed with cracks
and the rocks are much broken up. After about ten minutes' ascent up
a little path, we came to small holes, from each of which a current
of cool air poured out; these holes seemed fairly horizontal, and the
temperatures were high enough to prove that there was no ice within.
A little further on, we came to a hole or tiny cave among a pile of
rocks, where there was a painted sign: _Eisgrube_. It went down from
the mouth, and I put my hand well in, but, beyond the length of my arm,
I could neither see nor measure its shape or depth. The air felt cold,
but was nowhere near freezing point; nor was it possible to determine
whether there was a draught: it may or may not be a wind cave. Not
far from this, there were two gullies, each terminating in a small
cave. The first gully was planned somewhat like certain traps for wild
animals, that is, it narrowed gradually from the entrance, then became
covered over; and then dwindled, after some four meters more, into a
small descending hole, the end of which we could not reach. But we got
in far enough, to come to large chunks or slabs of ice plastered about
on the floor and sides. In this cave, which was sheltered against sun
and wind, the air, as tested by the smoke of a cigar, was motionless,
and the cave seemed unconnected with any air current. The second gully
terminated in a somewhat larger cave, whose floor was well below the
entrance; no ice was visible, however, although the air was still and
the temperature low. This cave may or may not be a glacière; but surely
it is not a cold current cave.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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