Another half an hour of uphill walking, partly on roads and partly
over soaking meadows, took us to Seelisberg, where we stopped at the
house of the owner of the second milkhouse, to get the key. The owner
could not go with us because he had damaged his foot, by wearing great
wooden shoes or _sabots_ armed with enormous spikes, while cutting
grass on steep slopes. He was hospitable enough: unlike his dog, who
was exceedingly anxious to attack us. The owner said--in the intervals
of the dog's howls--that ice formed during the winter in the rear wall
of his milkhouse and remained until about June. The milkhouse was in
a little patch of woods against a small cliff, at the bottom of which
were broken rocks. We had some difficulty in getting in, working for
at least ten minutes at the lock, while drops of rain-water would
occasionally drip into our coat collars. Just as I had given up hope,
my companion succeeded in getting the key to turn. There were several
pans, full of milk, placed to cool, and several barrels of potatoes;
and, as at the first milkhouse, we found that the rear wall consisted
simply of heaped up detritus built into a vertical position. Gentle air
currents flowed from several large holes and from the cracks between
the stones.
From here we went by a path through woods and over meadows down to the
lake, coming to the shore some distance to the west of the steamboat
landing. Everything was soaking wet, and as we proceeded, I felt my
clothes getting wetter and my shoes absorbing water like sponges until,
when we came to an overflowing brook, wading through seemed rather
pleasant. There is one advantage of getting thoroughly wet feet in the
mountains: it makes crossing streams so much easier, as one does not
delay, but simply steps right in.
The lower milkhouse was on the shore of the lake, near the house of
a fisherman, whose wife opened the door for us. There was some milk
in pans and several barrels of wine; and on a board were a number of
_ferras_ from the lake; the result of two days' catching in nets. This
was the largest of the three milkhouses; although it did not have as
many big holes in the rock wall as the others, but only the interstices
between the blocks of rock, whence we could feel cool air flowing out.
The woman said that the ice melted away by April or May, but that in
winter the wine barrels were all covered with frost. She also said that
the air coming from the clefts in summer was colder when the weather
was warm, than when it was rainy. Doubtless the temperature of the
draughts remains the same during the summer, but the air feels cooler
to the hand when the outside air is hot.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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