Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 1 of 2Cooper, James Fenimore
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Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 1 of 2
Cooper, James Fenimore
Cooper, James Fenimore, 1789-1851 -- Travel -- Italy; Italy -- Description and travel
Naples, I have told you, in part occupies broken ground. A volcanic
rock tops the city; and here is placed the well known castle of St.
Elmo; a citadel, or fortress, that can almost send its shot down the
chimneys of the place, as well as possessing a formidable range for
its fire, in the way of marine defence. The view from this castle is
singularly beautiful, and, owing to the proximity of the town, and
the formation of the land, one can vary it in fifty ways, by slight
changes of position. I know no other capital that possesses such a
look-out, as it were, in its bosom; that of Montmartre, though fine
and even extraordinary, from its extreme contrasts between town and
country, wanting altogether the softened sublimity which reigns all
through this region. Immediately below the citadel stands a convent,
which is now converted into an hospital, I believe, on the extremest
verge of the cliffs; for the part of the town that lies nearest the
sea, or the south-western quarter, is placed on terraces, which are
separated by perpendicular walls of tufa. From the balconies of this
convent there is a terrific bird’s-eye view of the more level quarter
of the town;--terrific, after all, is not precisely the word I ought
to use, for, as I have so often intimated, there is a softness thrown
around every natural object here, that lessens all the harsher features
of the landscapes. From this convent I looked into the streets, which
resembled narrow ravines, and even the sounds of a town proverbially
noisy, ascended to our ears. It required no great stretch of the
imagination to fancy the venerable fathers seated at their windows, now
contemplating the mites beneath them, engaged in the boisterous and
selfish pursuits of their lives, now turning their looks upwards at
the serene calm of the blue vacuum, through which, as habit has taught
us to imagine, lies the path to heaven. This is the poetical side of
the picture, for, were the truth known, I dare say the sight was as
often gloating on the baskets of green figs, and luscious grapes, and
other delicious objects, that are always to be seen in the streets, as
on any thing else. Before proceeding to the villa, I shall add, that
we went through this convent, which amply repaid the examination, by
its scented and carved sacristy, its picture by Spagnoletto, and its
“incense-breathing” chapels. Some of its passages and apartments were
the very quintessence of pious architecture, being cool, fragrant,
rich, quaint, and clerkly. Really, one occasionally finds in Italy
religious retreats, that are so suited to the climate, the dreamy
existence of the country, and the priestly tastes, that there are
moments when a monkish feeling comes over me, and even a monkish life
has its attractions. I believe, however, that I was not created for
vigils and fasts.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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