Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 1 of 2Cooper, James Fenimore
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Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 1 of 2
Cooper, James Fenimore
Cooper, James Fenimore, 1789-1851 -- Travel -- Italy; Italy -- Description and travel
The villa of Cardinal Ruffo lies on a terrace a little lower than this
convent, facing more to seaward. I do not know the precise elevation of
these rocks, but I think St. Elmo cannot be much less than four hundred
feet above the bay, if it be any less, and the villa is about two
hundred and fifty to three hundred. The garden is pretty, extensive,
and is well shaded with trees and shrubs, though the motive appears
to be, principally, to exclude the objects in the rear. The house is
extensive, though low, standing also on the verge of the cliffs. It
was in good order, neat, and reasonably well furnished, having just
been occupied by an Englishman of rank. But no language can do justice
to the scene which presented itself, when we reached its balconies. I
shall attempt to describe it, however; for having heard so much of the
beauty of this spot, you will feel some desire to get more distinct
ideas than can be gained by general eulogiums.
You know the position and magnitude of the bay, and the exquisite
beauty of its water. No American who has never been off soundings can
appreciate the latter beauty, I repeat, for I know of no blue water in
all America. Our most limpid lakes are nearer the colour of amber than
any other, and the entire coast is a sea-green. The Mediterranean, on
the other hand, is unusually blue, and its bays and gulphs appear to
have as deep a tint as the open sea.[10] The house commands a view
of all that part of the bay which lies in the direction of Capri, the
opposite coast, with the open sea, and in the distance. The foreground
was the lower terraces, and the portions of the town that were not hid
by the cliffs, on the side of the Chiaja.
The bay itself was asleep, with its bosom dotted with a thousand boats,
and crafts of different sizes. The deathlike calm that pervaded every
thing was in exquisite accordance with the character of the entire
view. The mountains were dreamy, the air was filled with a drowsy
repose, while the different objects of historical interest over which
the eye rather lingered than glanced, gave the whole the semblance of
a physical representation of things past, adorned and relieved by a
glorious grouping of so much that is exquisite in the usages of the
present.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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