Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 1 of 2Cooper, James Fenimore
General
Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 1 of 2
Cooper, James Fenimore
Cooper, James Fenimore, 1789-1851 -- Travel -- Italy; Italy -- Description and travel
The Campo Santo is a short distance from the city, enclosed by high
walls. There is a chapel near the entrance, with a few rooms for the
use of the officials. As I understand the arrangement, the earth was
removed from the entire area, when the cavity was walled up into three
hundred and sixty-five separate vaults. As there is, however, so much
of that soft material in this vicinity, I am not certain that the
desired number of vaults has not been cut in the tufa, the effect being
the same in the two cases. Each vault has a large hole in the centre,
that is covered by a stone fitting closely. This stone has a ring and
a moveable lever, with its fulcrum, all of which are on wheels, is in
readiness to remove it. Each night the lever is applied to a new ring,
and a stone is removed. At an appointed hour the dead arrive in covered
carts. Our guide affirmed that, after the religious service, they were
then _dumped_, to use a New York term, from the cart into the hole;
and judging by what I witnessed, I think this probable. The bodies are
next sprinkled with quick lime, and the stone is replaced and closed
with cement. At the end of the year, little is found besides bones,
which are removed to a bone-house, or vault, kept for that purpose.
The hole, however, is not closed for twenty-four hours, the fees paid
by the curious being an inducement to keep it in readiness to be opened
during that time.
When W---- and I presented ourselves, we were received by a
cadaverous-looking priest and sexton, on whose appearance this constant
communication with the remains of mortality had produced anything
but an aspect of devotion. Our wishes being known, after examining
the place generally, we were desired to look into an open vault: it
was quite empty, and indeed clean. The lever was then applied to the
ring of the covering of the vault last filled, and a more revolting
and hideous spectacle has been seldom witnessed than the one we saw.
Seventeen dead bodies were lying naked beneath the hole, in a way that
I can only compare to the manner in which Jack-straws fall! If they had
not actually been dropped from the cart, no care had been taken even to
lay them side by side, but they were placed just as chance had ordered
it. A few rags served as apologies to decency, and even these were not
always used. Whether they were actually brought from the hospitals in
this state, I cannot tell you; the guide affirmed that they were; but
one cannot confide in the information of guides.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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