Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 1 of 2Cooper, James Fenimore
General
Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 1 of 2
Cooper, James Fenimore
Cooper, James Fenimore, 1789-1851 -- Travel -- Italy; Italy -- Description and travel
The veritable Lazzaroni, however,--the houseless fellows who look
to Abraham’s bosom as their first regular lodgings,--have greatly
diminished of late years, if they exist at all. Murat made soldiers of
them, and otherwise gave them something to do, and they are now less
averse to regular employment than formerly. I saw many at work, quite
as near a state of nature as our Indians in a war dress, the paint
and feathers being so much the more in favour of the latter. The only
garment was a pair of very unsophisticated breeches, that did not cover
a fourth of the thighs. The colour, as may be imagined from exposure
under such a sun, was not essentially different.
The day we arrived, while the felucca was hauling into her berth, I
observed a pair of feet, soles uppermost, just out of water, not far
from the shore. Watching them for some time, they gradually sunk, when
a swarthy face came up in their place. This was one of the Lazzaroni
getting his dinner from the smaller shell-fish. A long resident here
tells me that these people can exist in summer on incredibly small
sums; such as three or four _grani_ a day. Coarse bread, grapes, and
most fruits are cheap; “and recollect,” added my friend “when you give
a Neapolitan beggar a _grano_ (which is less than a cent) you give him
a meal.” The figs are delicious, and I make it a point to eat one of
the luscious little green fellows, with a blood-red interior, every day
immediately after the soup. This has got to be a matter of conscience
with me. The water-melons are much like our own, and about the same
price; but musk melons are greatly inferior to those of New York. The
peaches seem to be merely tolerable. Notwithstanding this, fruits are
abundant, and, so far as the markets are concerned, better than ours;
though he who judges of the fruits of New York from the public-houses
and the markets, knows nothing about them. We have tried the ices in
the Toledo, and, notwithstanding their reputation, think them greatly
inferior to those of other towns we know. Contois need not hide his
head in comparison with anything, in the way of simple creams that are
to be found in Europe. But I have found good coffee in one cafè here,
and it is the first I have found in Italy. The house is kept by a
Frenchman.
Naples and New York lie within a few miles of the same latitude. There
are marked differences between the climates, certainly; and yet there
are also, at this season in particular marked points of resemblance.
Our proximity to the West Indies gives us some advantages as regards
the markets, as does the mixed character of our temperature. I believe
America to be almost the only country in which the peach and apple come
to perfection in the same field without resorting to forcing.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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