Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 1 of 2Cooper, James Fenimore
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Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 1 of 2
Cooper, James Fenimore
Cooper, James Fenimore, 1789-1851 -- Travel -- Italy; Italy -- Description and travel
what authority I cannot say, is called an Alexander the Great. The
windows of the _sala_ open on the court, on the street, and on the sea.
A street, that leads among convents, winds toward the great landing and
the bay.
Towards the water there is a little terrace, which forms the great
attraction of the house. It is only some fifty feet long, and perhaps
half as wide; but it hangs over the blue Mediterranean, and, by its
position and height, commands a view of three fourths of the glorious
objects of the region. It has a solid stone balustrade to protect it,
massive and carved, with banisters as big as my body. This renders it
perfectly safe, as you will understand when I tell you that, hearing an
outcry from P---- the other day, I found him with his head fast between
two of the latter, in a way that frightened me as well as the youngster
himself. It was like being imbedded in a rock.
As I sit at the foot of the dinner-table, I look, through a vista
of five large rooms, by means of doors, at the panorama presented
by Naples, which town lies directly across the bay, at the reputed
distance of eighteen miles; though I see St. Elmo so distinctly, that
it appears not half as far. Of course, when seated on the terrace,
the view is infinitely more extended. The sea limits it to the west.
Ischia, dark, broken, and volcanic, but softened by vegetation and the
tints of this luxurious atmosphere, comes next; then Procida, low,
verdant, and peopled. The misty abrupt bluff of Mysenum is the first
land on the continent, with the Elysian fields, the port of the Roman
galleys, and the “Hundred Chambers.” The site of delicious Baiæ is
pointed out by the huge pile of castle that lies on the hill-side, and
by the ruined condition of all the neighbouring objects of curiosity,
such as the Sibyl’s cave, the lake of Avernus, and the bridge, or mole,
of Agrippa. Behind a little island called Nisida, the bark of St. Paul
must have sailed when he landed at Puteoli, on his way to Rome. The
palace of Queen Joan, the grotto of Pausilippo, the teeming city, and
the bay dotted with sails, follow. Then the eye passes over a broad
expanse of rich level country, between Vesuvius and the heights of
the town. This is the celebrated Felicia Campania, with Capua in its
bosom; and the misty background is a wall of broken rocks, which in
form are not unlike our own palisadoes, but which, a grand range of
the Apennines, have probably six or seven times their height. These
mountains, at times are scarcely visible, just marking the outline of
the view in a sort of shadowy frame, and then, again, they come forth
distinct, noble, and dark, the piles they really are. On particular
days they do not appear to be a dozen miles from us. I have seen them
already, more than once, glittering with snow, when they are indeed
glorious. The base of Vesuvius, a continued hamlet of white edifices,
including palaces and cottages, with its cone for the background,
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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