Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 1 of 2Cooper, James Fenimore
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Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 1 of 2
Cooper, James Fenimore
Cooper, James Fenimore, 1789-1851 -- Travel -- Italy; Italy -- Description and travel
follows; and a pile of dingy earth, or ashes, just marks the position
of Pompeii.
There is a little room partitioned off from the terrace, that I use
as a cabinet, and where I can sit at its window and see most of these
objects. The distance impairs the effect but little; for so great is
the purity of the atmosphere, at times, that we have even fancied we
could hear the din of Naples across the water. In all this, too, I have
said nothing of the movement of the bay, which is getting to be of
great interest.
Our communication with Naples is daily, and exceedingly regular. Large
boats, carrying a single latine sail, and, at need, pulled by fifteen
or twenty oars, leave all the places on this side of the bay with the
dawn, at which hour there is almost always a wind from the northward.
They make the passage sometimes in two hours, and it is usually made in
four. About noon, the zephyr springs up, and we see our little fleet
bearing up from under the town, spreading as it advances, one steering
in this direction, another in that; for there are a dozen havens, or
landings, on our side of the bay. We usually get the papers and letters
by two o’clock. I have one boatman in pay, and this man brings me even
dollars with rigid honesty.
We are in the midst of antiquities. The foundations of a large edifice
are visible in the limpid water, directly beneath the terrace. They are
said to have belonged to a temple of Neptune, and there are caverns in
the cliffs, at no great distance from these ruins, which are supposed
to have belonged to them, for they have evidently been intended for
baths. We appropriate them to their ancient use, seldom suffering a day
to pass without bathing in them. The place can only be approached with
a boat, and we go in a body, there being accommodations for us all. A
large circular cavern, arched like an oven, is the room of the ladies.
The water passes in and out of it, by means of two channels cut in the
rock (tufa), and an orifice serves for a window. There is a seat cut in
the stone all round the circle, and a beautiful soft sand has collected
on the bottom, so as to render the water of the desired depth. A ship
might float against the cliffs on the outside. I land the ladies at the
window, where there is sufficient room to receive them and to answer
the purposes of the toilette, and then I pull round to the entrance
of the gallery by which the sea enters. This gallery is crooked, of
sufficient height to walk in, and has a narrow _trottoir_ by the side
of the water, along which one can walk. Midway between the sea and
the circular bath, is a deep cut about twelve feet long and half as
wide, and five feet deep. This is my bath, while W---- has one near
the entrance; both of us occasionally striking out into the bay. All
these works are artificial, and perfectly retired; and you may fancy
what a luxury it is to bathe daily in sea-water, sheltered from all
eyes, as well as from the sun. The circular bath is about fifty feet
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