Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 1 of 2Cooper, James Fenimore
General
Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 1 of 2
Cooper, James Fenimore
Cooper, James Fenimore, 1789-1851 -- Travel -- Italy; Italy -- Description and travel
in diameter, and twenty in height above the water. We have a little
difficulty in landing sometimes, on account of the sea; but it is not
one day in ten that we cannot effect it.
Carriages here are nearly useless. There is but a single wheel-track,
of a few miles in extent; and that runs, the whole distance, through
villages, or between high dead walls. When we wish to make excursions
on the land, we walk in the ravines that form the ditches of the place,
a most picturesque and remarkable promenade, or we take to the adjacent
hills. Sometimes donkeys are commanded, but we usually prefer our own
feet.
On the water we do better still. I have a good and safe boat, that one
man can manage with ease, and in which W---- or myself commonly pull
the family for an hour or two, under the cliffs, of an afternoon, or
when the bay near us is in shadow. Then there is a handsome pinnace
with two lug sails and six oars, that can be had any day for a dollar.
In this we cross the bay, or go to Pompeii. For longer excursions, I
get the _Divina Providenza_, one of the crafts that ply to Naples. This
vessel, in which we have weathered a heavy gale, is pulled by twenty
oars in a calm, sails fast, and costs me just five Neapolitan dollars a
day!
Our daily excursions under the cliffs are peculiarly Italian. We
cannot move until the day is drawing towards a close; but about four,
the shadows of the rocks are thrown so far on the water as to form a
complete protection against the rays of a fierce sun. At that hour,
too, it is commonly a flat calm, and we glide along sometimes with a
boatman, but oftener by ourselves, as far as a rocky point, where are
the ruins of a palace, or of a temple, (tradition has it both ways,)
and were, by rowing through a rocky arch, we can enter a little haven
of a very extraordinary character. At this place the boat is almost in
a cavern. Here we land and get new views of the unrivalled bay. Every
excursion that we make, we return more and more delighted with the
region in which we dwell, and deriding the opinions of those who pass
eight or ten days on the Chiaja, or in Santa Lucia, running from sight
to sight at any season of the year that may offer, and then go away
fancying they have seen the country of Naples!
There is a good deal of the “_dolce far niente_” in all this; but it is
a feeling admirably suited to this luxurious climate, and to a country
of recollections. In other places one is obliged to submit to much
toil and some privation, in order to see many objects of curiosity;
but they are assembled around the noble amphitheatre of this bay in
such numbers, that one is only obliged to turn his head to get a view
of them. If more curious, he can approach them in a boat, shaded by an
awning, without at all deranging the “_far niente_.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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