Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 1 of 2Cooper, James Fenimore
General
Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 1 of 2
Cooper, James Fenimore
Cooper, James Fenimore, 1789-1851 -- Travel -- Italy; Italy -- Description and travel
The remains of the Romans are in better keeping. The Piscina Mirabile
is a stupendous work, and almost perfect; and it puts all modern
reservoirs to shame. It is under ground, vast and contains arches and
piers fit for the foundations of a palace. My respect for the Roman
marine has never been very profound; but, if it be true that this place
was intended to water their fleet, I know no modern nation that, under
similar circumstances would be likely to effect the same object on a
scale so magnificent and noble.
The supposed prisons of the Hundred Chambers have the same character
of vastness and durability. But every thing Roman appears to be of
this nature, and, in studying the remains, one is constantly provoked
to make comparisons to the prejudice of us moderns. Were Naples to
be deserted to-morrow, and this entire region depopulated, it is my
opinion that they who visited the country a thousand years hence, would
still find remains of the Romans, where every trace of the Neapolitans
had disappeared. As for ourselves, the case is still worse. A period
as short as that during which the country has been occupied, would
probably obliterate every mark of our possession. We have a few forts,
and a sea wall or two, that might resist the wear of a few centuries;
but New York would not leave a trace, beyond imperishable fragments
of stone, in two hundred years. Something may be ascribed to climate,
certainly; but more is owing to the grand and just ideas of these
ancients, who built for posterity as well as for themselves.
After looking at ruins, if works almost as perfect as they were the day
they were completed can be so termed, we embarked, and made sail for
the point of Pausilippo, with a light but fair wind. The little island
of Nisida, which once had its villas too, is now the Lazaretto, and
was filled with travellers in quarantine. The breeze served to carry
us half across the bay, and it then deserted us. Our galley put out
its oars, and we swept in towards the cliffs, on as lovely an evening
as ever fell on this _pezzo di cielo_. Just as the day closed, the
black mass of Capri became shut in by the headlands of Massa, and we
approached the rocky shore of Sorrento beneath the light of a placid
moon. Before nine, we were all safely housed in the _Casa detta del
Tasso_.
LETTER XVI.
Capri.--Dread of Earthquakes.--Cruise to Pompeii.--The
Sarno.--Approaching Squall.--Sorrentine Boatmen.--Siroccos.--Public
Works.--Camaldoli Convents.--Islands of the Syrens.--A Sabbath
Walk.--Monasteries on Hills.--Creature-Comforts.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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