Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 1 of 2Cooper, James Fenimore
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Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 1 of 2
Cooper, James Fenimore
Cooper, James Fenimore, 1789-1851 -- Travel -- Italy; Italy -- Description and travel
To Capri we went in the six-oared pinnace. This island, which, as you
know, stands sentinel at one side of the bay, as Ischia does at the
other, seen at Naples appears to lie in its mouth. This is owing to
the position of Naples itself, which is placed at the northern corner
of the gulph; Vesuvius, as you have been already told, occupying the
bottom. I repeat these things, for my own notions having been all wrong
about them, I have fancied yours might be so too.
Capri is divided into two mountains by a deep gorge, or valley, in
which stands the town. The southern mountain is the highest, and is
truly a noble object, as one approaches the spot. It rises almost
to a peak which is, probably, two thousand feet high; and the ruins
that crown it are said to have belonged to a castle of Frederick
Barbarossa, and to stand on the site of a villa of Tiberius! There is
a tradition that Tiberius had many villas on this remarkable little
island; which may be true as there are numberless remains. At all
events, the place was in favour among the Romans, Augustus passing much
of his time here, towards the end of his career.
The lowest of the mountains is called Ana Capri, and can only be
reached by actually ascending a flight of steps cut in the rocks, of
half a mile in length, which ascend by a zigzag. P---- was mounted on a
donkey; and, making a line of pocket-handkerchiefs, which I fastened to
the girth, the ladies were greatly aided in this fatiguing ascent. The
picturesque seems exhausted in such beautiful spots. Here we had the
bay; the teeming and magnificent coast for leagues; the path itself a
curiosity, with a little chapel, at which the devout were kneeling as
we passed. A thousand recollections crowded on the mind. Among other
beautiful objects, were the different crafts, of which a fleet lay
becalmed under Vesuvius.
The English seized Capri, and held it for some time, while Murat was
king. Several unsuccessful attempts were made to re-take it, and one
finally succeeded, under Lamarque. That officer surprised the place by
scaling the rocks of Ana Capri, in the night; and, once in possession
of this elevated plain, he was in possession of the entire island.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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