Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 1 of 2Cooper, James Fenimore
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Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 1 of 2
Cooper, James Fenimore
Cooper, James Fenimore, 1789-1851 -- Travel -- Italy; Italy -- Description and travel
We found Ana Capri a hamlet of cottages. Every building had the low
circular roof of cement; and, as is the case with most of the houses
of this region, those in the towns and the villas excepted, they were
all of one story, like the buildings of Pompeii. A dread of earthquakes
has probably introduced this style; though Naples has unusually high
houses. Several streets of the capital, however, at this very moment,
have beams between the buildings which are said to be departing from
the perpendicular, in consequence of the working of the fires beneath.
One of these fine mornings, the whole of this “little bit of heaven
fallen upon earth” will probably fall into the cauldron beneath it;
and then travellers will come to see it as an object of frightful
desolation! Such was probably the fate of Sodom and Gomorrah. I wonder
if New York will ever experience a similar calamity.
Besides the cruise to Capri, we have made two to Pompeii, the first
of which was attempted in a fresh breeze and a heavy sea. When we had
got half way, W----, who, though a very bad sailor, swims like a fish,
began to make some inquiries about the probability of his arts being
required in landing; when we learned from the boatmen that any attempt
to approach the shore would most likely put us all in the water. I
had been told we might ascend the Sarno, about a mile, to the ruins
of the town, and, quite like a mariner as I contend, had presumed on
smooth water in port. It appeared, however, on inquiry, that there
is a bar at the mouth, and that in a flat calm the rollers sometimes
make crossing it hazardous. Nothing remained but to down-helm, and haul
up again for the Marina Grande. We were rewarded for the excursion,
notwithstanding, by enjoying the bay in a tumult. The heavy seas that
set into it, are not unlike those of the ocean in moderate weather;
and, since the season has advanced into October, we have witnessed the
waves dashing against our cliffs in a manner to send the spray upon the
terrace.
The next expedition was better timed, and we reached the mouth of the
river in good season. Here we found so little water, that the boat
grounded a cable’s length from the shore, and the only way to enter was
for the crew to jump into the water when, by watching the roll of the
ground-swell, and lifting, they succeeded in forcing us over the bar.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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