Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 1 of 2Cooper, James Fenimore
General
Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 1 of 2
Cooper, James Fenimore
Cooper, James Fenimore, 1789-1851 -- Travel -- Italy; Italy -- Description and travel
This is the season in which the vessels arrive from Sicily, and the
other southern ports, with wheat. For a fortnight there was scarcely
a day in which a dozen, and sometimes twenty sail, did pass directly
before us; for they haul close round the Cape of Campanella, and run
into Castle-a-mare, where the great warehouses of the kingdom are
placed. Some of the public works of this nature are on a scale that
is vast for the extent and commerce of the nation. There is a single
storehouse on the bay, by the side of the road that leads from Naples
to Portici, designed to be used in cases of quarantine, I believe, that
is one of the largest constructions I have ever seen. Its length cannot
be much less than half a mile. I counted the windows, and, estimating
the distance between them, made it out to be considerably more than
two thousand feet. But Europe is full of buildings that to us appear
marvellous by their magnitude and riches, and Italy, in particular,
before all other parts of it.
The passage of these vessels gave an entirely new appearance to our
side of the bay; and the daily arrival of our own little fleet, which
sometimes comes staggering along half under water, adds to the
interest. Roberto went to Naples a few days since, on business of
his own, and he became so thoroughly frightened by the fury of our
lovely bay, that the poor fellow, in preference to running the same
risk over again, actually made a _détour_ of forty miles, by the way
of Castel-a-mare, and the mountains, in order to get back again to
his duty. But the _Bella Genovese_ can testify that he is a miserable
sailor.
Our siroccos have not been perpetual, but some glorious autumnal
days succeeded the equinox. We have profited by them to explore the
interior of the peninsula on which we live, for the heat can now be
borne even at noon-day. You would laugh to see us start on one of these
excursions. Half a dozen little donkeys are paraded at the gate, with
two or three swarthy drivers. As soon as the ladies are seated on their
beasts, in a species of pack-saddle, W---- and I mount, with our feet
just clear of the ground, and away we go, by dint of kicks, thumps, and
applications on the flanks from the drivers. Once in motion, we are by
no means certain of the direction; for if urged beyond their humours,
the little long-eared gentry will put their noses down, and carry one
of the ladies just where he pleases. Cries of distress are constantly
made; one being run into a church door, another into the window of a
hovel, or a third is scampering down the road at a “will ye nill ye”
pace. We have a good deal of this amusement for the first mile or two,
after which we commonly get on better. No one thinks of laughing at
our appearance; for it is as much expected that one should ride on a
donkey here, as that one should ride on a horse with us.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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