Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 1 of 2Cooper, James Fenimore
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Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 1 of 2
Cooper, James Fenimore
Cooper, James Fenimore, 1789-1851 -- Travel -- Italy; Italy -- Description and travel
We have been on all the heights in this manner. One of our visits was
to a ruined convent, a _Camaldoli_, on the mountain that separates the
_piano_ of Sorrento from that of Vico. These _Camaldoli_ are always
placed on heights; St. Bruno, the founder of the order, being directed
by a dream, or a vision, I believe, to adopt the plan. The effect is
poetical and good; for I cannot imagine a finer stimulant for religious
meditation, than a broad view of the glories of the earth; and this
the more especially, if it be chastened by a knowledge of the things
practised on it. One gets, in this way, an idea of what things might
be without sin, to contrast with one’s knowledge of what things are.
In boyhood, my feeling on such places, was ever to fly, in order to
cull the beauties by again approaching them; but, as life glides
away, I find the desire to recede increase, as if I would reduce the
whole earth to a picture in a camera obscura, in which the outlines
and general beauties are embraced, while the disgusting details are
diminished to atoms.
The view from the eminence north of the _piano_, like every other
view in this region, is magnificent; but one cannot go amiss, in this
respect, in a country in which rocks, plains, water, mountains, and
life, are blended in the affluence that distinguishes Naples. The
convent buildings are chiefly destroyed, for there has been a great
suppression of monastic orders in this country; but the chapel still
stands. It is used as a barn, and was half full of hay. Still the
altar-piece, a very good picture, remains!
There is a seat on the verge of the cliff, that overlooks the plain of
Sorrento, as one would overlook a garden from the Belvedere of a house,
or a ship’s decks from her mizen top. Here we were particularly struck
with the resemblance of the houses to those of Pompeii, all the roofs
being low, with the species of dome-like curvature, to turn the water,
that has been before mentioned.
An excursion in the opposite direction proved to be still finer.
We went up the heights, behind Sorrento, by a Swissish road, half
stairs, half path, until we gained a country that had a more pastoral
character than usual. A hamlet on the summit, that overlooked the
Mediterranean towards the south, and at an elevation of near, if not
quite, a thousand feet, is called St. Agata. Some small rocky islets,
at no great distance from the coast, and around which the sleeping
billows, in their incessant rolling, just raised a circle of white, are
called the Islands of the Syrens; it being assumed that these are the
Islands where Ulysses encountered those sea ladies; and one of them is
said to contain the ruins of a temple. They are mere rocks, not larger
than that on which we landed near Piombino. Can these ruins once have
been the abode of nymphs, who seduced the wanderer from his path, on
anchoring accidentally near them?
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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