Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 1 of 2Cooper, James Fenimore
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Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 1 of 2
Cooper, James Fenimore
Cooper, James Fenimore, 1789-1851 -- Travel -- Italy; Italy -- Description and travel
We went to the Protestant cemetery, which contains many American
graves, and among others, that of Captain Gamble, who died here, in
command of the Erie, about ten years ago. This gentleman, one of four
brothers in the service, had been my messmate on Lake Ontario some
twenty years before, and it was startling to find myself unexpectedly
standing over his grave in the other hemisphere. On examining the
monuments near, I was still more startled at reading the name of
“Tobias Smollett” on one of them. He is known to have come to Italy to
terminate his worldly career. The “Siste Viator” applies with force to
those who speak English, and who find themselves unexpectedly standing
over such a grave!
We soon exhausted the sights of Leghorn and returned to Pisa, where we
slept. The weather was intensely cold, and we sat shivering over a bad
fire until it was time to retire. I would advise no consumptive person
to come to Italy, in the expectation of finding a more genial climate
than can be got in America. The West Indies offer many more suitable
spots for the malady; and a man of science at Paris has told me that
the temperature of St. Augustine is known to be more mild and equal
than that of any other place in the world, of which there are authentic
journals of the changes of weather. Every one here tells me that the
patients usually come to die; a fact to which the Leghorn cemetery
bears ample testimony. It were a worthy object for the government
to push St. Augustine, if for no other purpose than to render it
comfortable to invalids.
The next day we returned to Florence, by the great route, reaching the
gates of the town in time to dine. The weather had become more mild,
and we were struck with the beauty of the peasant girls, many of whom
were sitting in the sun, and a fair proportion of whom had pretentions
to some of that pastoral prettiness of which the poets delight to
speak. These were the first females of the class, however, that had
the smallest claims to beauty, which it had been my good fortune to
meet with in Europe, out of England. Hitherto I had seen occasional
exceptions, but on this road we actually met with rural beauties in
crowds. I attribute the circumstance to their employment; for most of
them were plaiting straw for hats.
LETTER V.
Application for an audience at the Court of Tuscany.--A grand
Drawing-room at the Pitti Palace.--Transfer of the sovereignty
of Tuscany.--The author presented to the Grand Duke and to the
Princesses.--His conversation with the Grand Duke.--Political
Reflections.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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