Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 1 of 2Cooper, James Fenimore
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Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 1 of 2
Cooper, James Fenimore
Cooper, James Fenimore, 1789-1851 -- Travel -- Italy; Italy -- Description and travel
One of the most picturesque of our relations with the church arises
from the funerals. Lounging in the clerical belvedere lately, we
saw torches gleaming in a distant lane. Presently the sounds of the
funeral song reached us; and these gradually deepened, until we had the
imposing and solemn chant for the dead echoing between our own walls,
as if in the nave of a church. It is necessary to witness such a scene
to appreciate its beauty, on a still and dark night, beneath an Italian
sky.
In one of the dreamy walks that I take in company with a Florentine, I
strolled near a league along the road to Rome. The country is broken;
the road winding among naked and abrupt hills, that constantly remind
me of the scenery that one usually finds attached to subjects painted
from Holy Writ. On a small bit of table-land, that rises in one of the
valleys, is a Carthusian convent; and finding ourselves beneath its
walls, my companion proposed entering.
The ascent was easy, and the outer gate open. We saw no one, but,
following a carriage way that resembled the approach to an ancient
castle, we soon reached the door that communicates with the cloister.
Here we accidentally met with a lay brother, who amused himself with
cooking for the worthy fathers, and our application for admission was
favourably, but silently received. The place was the image of solitude
and silence; not a soul besides the lay brother was visible, and even
he soon disappeared.
You may imagine the effect of strolling through vast, tenantless,
echoing, monastic cloisters, corridors and halls, on a sleepy Italian
day, grateful for the shade and coolness, but wondering for whom
these vast edifices were constructed. We positively entered, remained
an hour, and left this structure without seeing a soul but the lay
brother. The gates were open, apparently, for all who chose to enter;
the chapel, sacristy, and cloisters were all accessible, not a door or
a gate requiring the hand, and yet no one was visible. We departed as
we had come; and the only evidence we had that there was a fraternity
within, was to be found in a list of the fathers who were to perform
certain masses, which was suspended in the chapel, and on which
the priests were all designated by the Latin abbreviation _Dom._ or
_Dominus_. As we returned along the highway, however, a Carthusian,
dressed in his white robe, was seen mending a pen at a window of his
small tenement: for each father has a tiny house to himself, with a
garden and yard; the rules requiring that they shall live separately,
and deny themselves, as much as may be, the comforts and solace of
speech. These habitations form a court all opening on the cloisters, of
which they compose, in fact, the several sides. A covered gallery makes
the usual means of intercourse within, while the distinct character of
the structures is only apparent from without. The gardens lie between
the small houses, or apartments.
FOOTNOTES:
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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