[3] _Casa Ricasoli, via del Cocomero._ The aspirations are guttural, and have a touch of the Moresco-Spanish about them. LETTER X. The Florentine Fête.--Chariot-races.--Horse-race.--Fête on the Arno.--The Comte St. Leu.--The Bonaparte Family.--Fireworks and Illuminations.--Illuminations in Paris.--The Corpus Domini.--Anecdotes of the knavery of Florentine Domestics. The great Florentine fête was celebrated a short time since. One of the ceremonies is so peculiar, that it may amuse you to have a short account of it. There are several considerable squares in the town, but the largest is that of Santa Maria Novella. At the festival of St. John, who is the patron saint of the city, an imitation of the ancient chariot-races is held in this square, which affords the most space. The games are called the _corsi dei cocchi_. There are two small obelisks on opposite extremities of the square, and the temporary circus is constructed by their means. A cord is stretched from one to the other; a sort of amphitheatre is formed by scaffoldings around the whole, the royal and diplomatic boxes being prepared near the goal. As there is much scenic painting, a good parade of guards both horse and foot, a well-dressed population, and a background of balconies garnished by tapestry and fine women, to say nothing of roofs and chimneys, the general effect is quite imposing. The falling off is in the chariots. The ancient vehicle was small and had but two wheels; whereas these were large and clumsy, had four wheels, and unusually long and straggling perches,--an invention to keep them from upsetting. In other respects the form was preserved, and the charioteers were in costume. Four chariots, to use the modern language, entered for the race. The start was pretty fair, and the distance twice round the obelisks. If you ask me for the effect, I shall tell you that, apart from the appliances--such as the court, the guards, the spectators and the dresses, and perhaps I might add the turns,--one may witness the same any fine evening in New York, between two drunken Irish cartmen who are on their way home. There was certainly a little skill manifested at the turns, and it was easy to see that betting should have been on the outside chariot; for those nearer to the obelisks were obliged to go considerably beyond them before they could come round, while the one farthest from the poles just cleared them. This outside chariot won the race, the charioteer having the sagacity not to make his push before the last turn.