Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 1 of 2Cooper, James Fenimore
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Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 1 of 2
Cooper, James Fenimore
Cooper, James Fenimore, 1789-1851 -- Travel -- Italy; Italy -- Description and travel
We fetched in just beneath the cliff, or promontory, that forms the
north-eastern extremity of the town of Porto Ferrajo, a rocky eminence
of some elevation. It was crowned by the government house, which
had been the palace of Napoleon during his insular reign. My object
had been to get into smooth water, by making a lee; but this near
view of a place so celebrated was too tempting to be resisted, and I
determined to beat up into the bay, even if we should run out again
without anchoring. This bay is several miles deep, and at its mouth
near a league wide; the land being chiefly mountain and _côtes_. The
promontory, on which stands the town, makes a bend on its inner side,
like the curve of a hook; and this, aided a little by some artificial
works, forms a beautiful and secure little harbour, of which the
entrance is towards the head of the bay, the water being everywhere
deep, with bold shores.
By ten o’clock we had weathered the mouth of the little haven, and
the wind still continuing foul, I determined to run in and anchor.
This was accordingly done, and I had called to a boat to come and
put us on shore, when the padrone announced the appalling news of
there being a quarantine of fifteen days between Elba and Naples! We
immediately hauled out of the harbour, and only waited to breakfast
before we went to sea again. While discussing this meal on deck, the
padrone was discussing matters with a brother of the craft, on board
another felucca; and he came to me to say, that, though there _was_
a quarantine of fifteen days between Elba and Naples, there was none
at all between the Roman states and Tuscany, or the Roman states
and Naples; and that, by running into Cività Vecchia, we might get
clean bills of health, and all would be plain sailing.--So much for a
Mediterranean quarantine! I accepted the terms, and we landed.
Porto Ferrajo is a small crowded town, populous for its size,
containing five thousand souls, lying on the acclivity on the inner
side of the promontory. It is pretty well fortified, though the works
are old, it being walled, and having two little citadels, or forts, on
the heights. It was garrisoned by five hundred men, they told me; and
there were two hundred galley-slaves kept in the place. The town was
clean enough, the streets having steps, or narrow terraces, by which we
ascended the hills.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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