Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 1 of 2Cooper, James Fenimore
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Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 1 of 2
Cooper, James Fenimore
Cooper, James Fenimore, 1789-1851 -- Travel -- Italy; Italy -- Description and travel
The arrival of a party of strangers created a sensation; for, with the
exception of the brief interruption of the presence of Napoleon, there
are few more retired spots in Europe than this. We went to the best
inn, which bears the imposing title of the _Quattro Nazioni_. It was
far from bad, and it gave us a reasonably good dinner farthermore, it
promised us four beds and a sofa, should we pass the night there. The
art of colouring the bricks of the floors has not reached this inn;
for the room in which we dined had a sofa and seven mirrors, while the
floor was of coarse, dirt-coloured bricks full of holes. Ireland and
America are not the only countries in which discrepancies in style
occur. In short, England is the only country where they do not; and
even in England there is something inappropriate, in seeing three or
four powdered lackeys, and a well-appointed equipage, before the door
of a mean, dingy town-house of bricks, with three or four windows in
front and quite destitute of all architectural taste.
I had some conversation with the people of the house concerning their
late sovereign. Napoleon arrived in the evening, and remained in the
frigate until next day. One of his first acts was to send for the
oldest known flag used by Elba, and this he caused to be hoisted on the
forts; a sign of independency. He was not much seen in the town, though
he often rode out on horseback, and a carriage-road around the head of
the bay was pointed out as his work.
We found it so agreeable to be on a spot to which travellers do not
resort, that, I think, the felucca would have been discharged, and we
should have remained on this island two or three months, had good
accommodations offered. There were also some hints of malaria that did
not encourage this notion.
While at the inn, I saw what the Italians call a _tarantula_: not a
spider, but the lizard which bears this name. Perhaps nine-tenths of
the Italians fancy the bite of this animal mortal; though it cannot
bite at all, I believe. It is a perfectly inoffensive lizard, living
on insects, and is found in America, where no one ever hears of its
poison. It is, however, a most disgusting-looking object; which is
probably the reason it bears so bad a name. The scorpion of Italy,
also, is not in favour. We found several at St. Illario, but they
are not dangerous in this latitude; the sting being about as bad as
the bite of a spider. Both these animals are held in great respect
by ordinary travellers; Mr. Carter, among others, dwelling on their
horrors. This amiable and well-intentioned man saw more important
things through quite as mistaken a medium.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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