Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 1 of 2Cooper, James Fenimore
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Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 1 of 2
Cooper, James Fenimore
Cooper, James Fenimore, 1789-1851 -- Travel -- Italy; Italy -- Description and travel
We descended into the theatre by a passage cut through the lava, and
explored its neighbourhood by torchlight. The stage, proscenium,
consular seats, orchestra, and lobbies, are open; and it was a curious
sensation to wander through such places under such circumstances.
The general appearance was that of a mine; but when the eye came to
scrutinize the details, and to find that the place was once actually
a populous city, which exists as near as possible in its ancient
condition, embedded, filled, gorged with lava, a feeling of awe and
of intense admiration comes over one. I think this place, out of all
comparison, the most imposing sight of the two. Pompeii offers more to
investigation, and more for the gratification of common curiosity; but
there is a sublimity in the catastrophe of Herculaneum, a grandeur in
its desolation, that have no parallel. One is like examining a mummy
carelessly prepared, in which the mass has been so far preserved, it is
true, as to show a general but a hideous likeness to humanity, while
the other is opening one of those graves that, owing to some property
of the soil, preserves the body with most of the peculiarities of the
living man. The lava and the stone of the edifices are so intimately
united, that one does not, at first, distinguish between them in those
places where the separation has not been made; and I cannot describe
the effect on the feelings, when it is suddenly ascertained that the
hand is actually resting on a portion of a human structure.
As the light descends by the large opening that was made around the
well, the stage and pit of the theatre, with all its more principal
parts, are sufficiently obvious. But even this excites a sensation
different from any other ruin (the word is misapplied, for every thing
is nearly as perfect as on the day when the catastrophe occurred)
when the frightful interment is contemplated. Judge for yourself of
the appearance of a large and even elegant structure, placed in the
bosom of rocks, eighty feet beneath the surface, and of the crowd of
associations that press upon the mind at contemplating such an object.
Of the magnitude of the edifice you may form some notion by that of the
proscenium, which is set down in the books at one hundred and thirty
feet in length, the rest of the building being in proportion of course.
It is said this theatre would hold ten thousand people, but the number
strikes me as extravagant.--When it was first opened, everything that
was not liable to be removed, or destroyed, by the motion and heat of
the lava, was found as it stood at the moment of the disaster. Thus the
stage had all its permanent decorations, though some were displaced and
injured, such as bronzes, alabaster columns, &c. These fragments have
been preserved in the museums. You know that the celebrated equestrian
statues of the Balbi came from Herculaneum.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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