Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 1 of 2Cooper, James Fenimore
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Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 1 of 2
Cooper, James Fenimore
Cooper, James Fenimore, 1789-1851 -- Travel -- Italy; Italy -- Description and travel
I have only given you my first impressions on visiting these two
remarkable places, as volumes exist filled with their details, arranged
with care, and collected with accuracy. To the American, to whom a
quaint chimney top, half a century old is a matter of interest, I
should think few objects in Europe would present more attractions than
either; for though much older and even better specimens of ancient
art and ancient manners are certainly to be found, none others exist
surrounded by so many of the evidences of familiar life.
The entire base of Vesuvius, which in former times, as now, seems to
have been a favourite residence, offers the same species of remains,
wherever a shaft is sunk or an opening made, though there are but two
or three buried cities. Many villas and hamlets have been discovered,
and I have seen one or two of them in the distance. A much more
wonderful thing as is said, I know not with what truth, is the fact,
that Pompeii stands on lava, which in itself covers another town. This
may be true, for the site might induce the occupation of the spot; and
if true, what a miserable figure human annals make!
On returning from this visit I witnessed a droll scene beneath our
windows. There is a small garden, with a pavilion, directly opposite
the hotel. It stands on the margin of the sea, is enclosed with a high
wall, and is the property of the crown; the royal children frequently
coming to it to take exercise. While we were seated in the balconies,
enjoying the sea-breeze, a carriage and four, with a _piqueur_, and
the royal liveries, drove to the door of the pavilion, and set down
a gentleman and a lady, with a boy and a girl, the latter about six,
and the former perhaps four years old. These were two of the younger
children of the king.--They went together into the house. It was not
long, however, before they all came out again.--A crowd had collected
by this time, and every one stood uncovered, the guards, at the gate
of the garden, with presented arms. The children were lifted into the
hind seats of the carriage, an open barouche, with great respect, and
their attendants were about to take the front seats, when the little
creatures sprang on them, with the zest that forbidden pleasures are
apt to excite. The gentleman and lady remonstrated without success;
the sight of the horses overcoming the sense of etiquette. The boy,
in particular, was for driving. The lady then entered the carriage,
carefully avoiding seating herself on the hind seat, and finally
succeeded in persuading the girl to take her proper place; but his
royal highness, the Conde d’Aquila, for such is the appellation of the
boy, resolutely refused to budge. At last, the whole affair consuming
several minutes, the gentleman entered, seated himself by the side
of the lady, took the young prince in his lap, and whispered his
remonstrances, but all in vain, the little fellow struggling manfully
to get a sight of the horses again. Tired with his pertinacity, he was
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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