Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 2 of 2 — John Shaqi
Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 2 of 2Cooper, James Fenimore
General
Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 2 of 2
Cooper, James Fenimore
Cooper, James Fenimore, 1789-1851 -- Travel -- Italy; Italy -- Description and travel
GLEANINGS IN EUROPE.
ITALY:
BY
AN AMERICAN.
IN TWO VOLUMES.
VOL. II.
_PHILADELPHIA_:
CAREY, LEA, AND BLANCHARD.
1838.
ENTERED according to ACT OF CONGRESS, in the year 1838,
BY CAREY, LEA, AND BLANCHARD,
In the Clerk’s Office of the District Court of the Eastern District of
Pennsylvania.
ITALY.
LETTER XVIII.
Mountain paths near Sorrento.—The Scaricatòjo.—Picturesque
house.—Amalfi.—Salerno.—Eboli.—The Castle.—View from
it.—Unhealthiness of the Peasantry.—Buffaloes.—Useful breed of
Oxen.—Scene of Murder.—Pæstum.—The Temple of Neptune.—Scenery of
Pæstum.—Beautiful route to Pompeii.—Castel-a-Mare.—American Vessels
seized by Murat.—Influence of the Commercial Class in
America.—Rights of individual Citizens disregarded.
The season having advanced far enough to remove all apprehension of
malaria, we sent notice to our friend Mr. Hammett, at Naples, and
prepared to visit Pæstum. On the appointed day the consul appeared,
and, the next morning, after an early breakfast, we left _la Casa
detta del Tasso_, on donkeys as usual, and took one of the mountain
paths that led towards the gulf of Salerno. We had often explored
these very heights, and had often admired the loveliness of the
view, as from the elevations we overlooked both bays, and all the
radiant scenery, but never more so than on this occasion. The shores
of this promontory, on the gulf of Salerno, are, as a rule, much
higher than those of the bay of Naples, though they cannot well be
more precipitous. At the highest point of the road we dismissed the
donkeys, and prepared to make the descent on foot, followed by a man
to carry the night-sack and the cloaks. The place to which we were
going, and, in particular, the path which leads to it, has great
local celebrity, and that deservedly, among the lovers of the
picturesque, under the name of the _Scaricatòjo_, which signifies, I
believe, a place to discharge at, or a landing. W——, who justifies
his Pennsylvanian descent by a love of puns, termed it the
“Scare-you-the-toes-oh!”—and really it is one of the last places on
the coast I should have expected to find a marine landing at. The
precipice is very high, many times higher than that of Sorrento, and
almost as steep. We went down it by a zig-zag, half stairs and half
path, or what —— would call an _amphibious_ road, wondering what
there could be at the bottom, but the sea. We did find, however, a
landing just large enough to receive a boat or two, and the site of
a small house, in which two or three custom-house officers live; for
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