Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 2 of 2Cooper, James Fenimore
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Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 2 of 2
Cooper, James Fenimore
Cooper, James Fenimore, 1789-1851 -- Travel -- Italy; Italy -- Description and travel
What is one to think of such a history? Do they who promulgate it
believe it themselves; or is it a mere fiction invented to
deceive?—_Can_ it be true? Certainly it might, as well as that this
earth could be created, and continue to roll on in its orbit.—_Is_ it
true? That is certainly a great deal more than I shall presume to
affirm, or even to believe, accompanied with circumstances of so little
dignity, and facts so little worthy of such a display of Divine
power.—Do the people themselves, they who frequent the shrine, believe
it? Of that I should think there is little doubt, as respects the great
majority.—I cannot express to you the feelings with which I saw my
fellow-creatures kneeling at this shrine, and manifesting every sign of
a devout reliance on the truth of this extraordinary legend. One woman,
a well-dressed and respectable female to all appearances, was buried in
the recess of the fire-place, where she remained kneeling, nearly an
hour, without motion!
Loretto is no longer much frequented by pilgrims from a distance.
Formerly, the treasury had the reputation of being immensely rich, and a
garrison was maintained in the place to guard it. There are, even now,
the remains of military defences around the church, which stands at a
point where the rock falls away rapidly towards the Adriatic. It has
been said, the popes availed themselves of these riches at different
times; and it is pretty certain most of them have disappeared since the
period of the French invasion. The French bear the opprobrium of having
despoiled the shrine; but it is quite as probable that they were
anticipated; for who that knew their career in Upper Italy would have
waited, on such an occasion, until the enemy was at the gate? Little
remains; though we saw some things of price in the treasury, several of
which were quite recent gifts from royal personages.
There is an infirmary for the pilgrims annexed to the establishment, and
I went into it to see some designs of Raphael’s that were painted on the
jars and other vessels which held the medicines. They are extraordinary
things in their way, and prove that the divinity of the school of
Raphael is not the divinity of an anchorite. These gallipots, and the
house near the _Porta del Popola_ at Rome, exhibit the author of the
Transfiguration, very much as Ovid betrays his taste in the
Metamorphoses, and Juvenal his in his Satires.
We passed the night at Loretto, where we purchased sundry rosaries made
of shells from the adjoining coast, candles, _agnus dei_, and other
memorials of the place, all of which were properly authenticated by a
certificate.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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