Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 2 of 2Cooper, James Fenimore
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Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 2 of 2
Cooper, James Fenimore
Cooper, James Fenimore, 1789-1851 -- Travel -- Italy; Italy -- Description and travel
I cannot discover how far the Church of Rome at this day attaches
importance to belief in the history of the Santa Casa. It is not now,
and probably never was, a matter essential to communion with the
Catholic Church, though it certainly did receive support from the head
of the Church at one time. So far as I can discover, intelligent
Catholics, especially those out of Italy, wish to overlook this shrine,
which, they say, may be believed in, or not, as one credits or
discredits any other legend of ancient date. Its history is not sacred,
and it is not obligatory to put faith in it. Certainly, I should say,
that the more enlightened Catholics, even here, regard the whole account
with distrust: for he who really believed that God had made such a
manifestation of his will, would scarcely hesitate about worshiping at
the shrine, if he worshiped at all, since the building would not have
been transferred by a miracle without a motive. It is fair, then, to
suppose that few among the intelligent now put any faith in the
tradition; for it is certain few of that class continue to make
pilgrimages to the spot. The time will probably come when shrine and
legend will be abandoned together.
The next day’s work was short, carrying us only to Ancona. The road was
through a pleasing country, and some of the views, especially towards
the mountains, were exceedingly beautiful. The eastern faces of the
Apennines, like the southern faces of the Alps, appear to be more
precipitous than those of the reverse side. The summit of the range was
now white with snow, while the entire foreground offered an exquisite
picture of verdure and sunny fertility, imparting to the view,
notwithstanding the principal elements were the same, peculiarities that
were not often observable among the Swiss peaks. There was a warmth in
the tints, a softness that, though it left the brilliancy, destroyed the
chill of the summits, and, all together, a gentleness of atmosphere and
a calm about this landscape, that I do not remember to have ever
witnessed in Switzerland, except on the Italian side of the mountains.
Ancona is only some sixteen or eighteen miles from Loretto. We got in,
therefore, early, and had an opportunity to examine the place. The port
is formed, in part, by the bluff against the side of which the town is
principally built, aided by a mole of considerable extent. A part of
this mole is very ancient, for there is an arch on it, which was raised
in honour of Trajan, though it is vulgarly called the Arch of Augustus.
Another arch, farther advanced, shows that the popes have greatly added
to the work. The harbour is pretty and safe, but it appears to want
water. Here we first stood on the shores of the Adriatic. The colour of
this sea is less beautiful than that of the Mediterranean; its waters
having a stronger resemblance to those of our own coast than to those of
the neighbouring sea.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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