Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 2 of 2Cooper, James Fenimore
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Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 2 of 2
Cooper, James Fenimore
Cooper, James Fenimore, 1789-1851 -- Travel -- Italy; Italy -- Description and travel
We took boat daily for the last week of our residence, living on the
water, and among the palaces and churches. I was surprised to find that
the Adriatic has a tide; for banks over which we have rowed at one hour,
were bare a few hours later. In all this place, there are but two or
three areas in which the population can seek the air, except by
resorting to the canals and the port. Napoleon caused a garden to be
planted, however, near the northern extremity of the town, which will
eventually be a charming spot. It is larger than one might suppose from
the circumstances; and here only can a Venetian enjoy the pleasures of
verdure and shade.
You will be surprised to hear, that by the Rialto of Shakspeare, one is
not to understand the _bridge_ of that name. This bridge is divided into
three passages, by two rows of low shops, which are occupied by butchers
and jewellers (a droll conjunction,) and the height has rendered broad
steps necessary to make the ascents and descents easy. Some travellers
describe a small platform on the summit of the bridge as the Exchange,
or the place where Shylock extorted gold. I believe this is altogether a
misconception. The Rialto is the name of the island at one end of the
bridge, and on this island the merchants resorted for the purposes of
business; and “meeting me _on_ the Rialto,” did not mean, on the
_bridge_, but on the _island_, after which island the bridge, in fact,
is named. Mr. Carter, among others, seems to have fallen into this
error.
“I stood in Venice on the Bridge of Sighs,”
&c. &c. &c.
is pure poetry. This bridge is thrown across the narrow dark canal that
separates the Ducal Palace from the Prison, and is, in fact, a covered
gallery. The description of
“A palace and a prison on each hand,”
though bad grammar, is sufficiently literal. It is bad grammar, because
there are _not_ a palace and a prison on _each_ hand, but a palace on
one side and a prison on the other. As poetry, the verse is well enough;
but you are not to trust too implicitly to either Shakspeare or Byron,
if you desire accuracy. The remainder of the description is not to be
taken as at all faithful, though so very beautiful. It is morally, but
not physically true. The Bridge of Sighs, if open, would be one of the
worst places in all Venice to obtain the view described. I mention this,
not as criticism, for as such it would be hypercriticism, but simply
that you may understand the truth.
“Her palaces are crumbling to the shore,”
is also exaggerated. One or two buildings have been destroyed for the
materials, I am told; and one palace remains half demolished, the
government having interfered to save it. At least, such is the account
of my gondolier. But, beyond this, there is little apparent decay in
Venice, except that which is visible in the general inactivity of the
business of the port and town.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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