Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 2 of 2Cooper, James Fenimore
General
Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 2 of 2
Cooper, James Fenimore
Cooper, James Fenimore, 1789-1851 -- Travel -- Italy; Italy -- Description and travel
The accounts that there are passages for foot-passengers along the
margin of the canals is also untrue. Such may be the fact in particular
spots, but it is by no means true as the common mode of communication by
land. I have seen places on the Grand Canal where one may walk some
distance in this manner; but it is on planks raised against and secured
to the houses for the purpose, and not by any permanent footways. The
intercourse by land is in the centre of the different islands, access
being had to all the principal buildings both by land and by water, as I
have told you before. On the side of the canals, the boats touch the
door-steps, while in the rear narrow alleys serve as outlets. Most of
these alleys are only four or five feet in width. These, again,
communicate with the streets, which are usually very narrow. Perhaps
half the buildings do not touch a canal at all, especially the smaller
shops and dwellings.
You may imagine the effect of the celebrated regattas of Venice by
considering the situation of the Grand Canal. This is a small river in
appearance, a little winding to relieve the monotony; and it is
literally lined with the large buildings that in Italy are called
palaces. Every window has its balcony. The terms ‘canals’ and ‘lagoons’
are, however, misapplied as respects the bay and channels of Venice. You
know, of course, there are no gates, which we are apt to associate with
the idea of a canal, though improperly; but it is the land that is
artificial here, and not the water. The Grand Canal is not unlike the
letter S in its direction, and it widens sensibly near the port, which
is a broad estuary between the islands of the town and the Lido.
This Lido is the bank that protects the Lagoon from the Adriatic. It is
long, low, and narrow, and is not entirely without vegetation. There are
a few houses on it, and in one or two places something like villages.
Most of the islands, of which there are many that do not properly belong
to the town, are occupied; one containing a convent with its
accessories, another a church, and a third a hamlet of the fishermen.
The effect of all this is as pleasing as it is novel; and one rows about
this place, catching new views of its beauties, as one rows round and
through a noble fleet, examining ships. Still, Venice must be left, the
warm weather admonishing us to retire; and I am now actually occupied in
the preparations necessary to a departure.
LETTER XXXIII.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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