Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 2 of 2Cooper, James Fenimore
General
Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 2 of 2
Cooper, James Fenimore
Cooper, James Fenimore, 1789-1851 -- Travel -- Italy; Italy -- Description and travel
New mode of Travelling.—Route from Venice to Vicenza.—Theatre on a new
plan by Palladio.—Verona: The Amphitheatre, and the Tomb of
Juliet.—Observations on Italians and Italian Society.—Banditti and
Assassins.—Lower classes of Italians.—Nobles and Gentlemen.—Italy by
nature a single country.—Its divisions into States.—Obstacles to its
consolidation.—Napoleon.—A confederated Republic predicted.—Line of
the Tyrol.—New mode of Travelling the most expensive.—The Inn at
Trent.—Picturesque Valley.—Tower at Botzen.—Brixen.—Pass of the
Brenner.—Innspruck.—The Cathedral, and the Castle of the Counts of
the Tyrol.
A novel mode of travelling was suggested to me, and I determined to try
it, merely to compare it with the others. In most of the countries of
the Continent, the governments control the diligences, or public
coaches, which are drawn by post-horses. In the Austrian States one can
travel in the diligences at his own hours, provided a certain number of
places are paid for. The size of my family admitting of this, I have
come up from Venice to Innspruck in that mode; the advantages being
those of paying once for all at Venice, of travelling entirely under the
authority of the government, and of not being under the necessity of
wrangling with the postillions. The disadvantage, as I have since
discovered, was that of paying considerably more than I should have
done, after quitting Italy, had we come post in the old way. In Lombardy
we had no difficulty, postmasters and postillions conducting themselves
admirably; but in the Tyrol it was a constant scene of wrangling about
hours and horses. I shall not repeat the experiment, after we have
fairly crossed the Alps.
We left Venice quite early, in a public boat, being now fairly in the
hands of government. At Mestre we found our own carriage, and, entering
it, we were soon furnished with four horses and two postillions. The
latter cut a strange figure, in yellow coats and cocked hats. They were
perfectly civil, however, and we soon found ourselves in Padua.
Changing horses, we now diverged from our old route, taking the road to
Vicenza, where we dined. The country was not so tame as Lombardy is in
general, and we were rapidly approaching the advanced hills of the Alps.
Still, the road, a good one in every sense, ran along a very even
surface.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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