Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 2 of 2Cooper, James Fenimore
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Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 2 of 2
Cooper, James Fenimore
Cooper, James Fenimore, 1789-1851 -- Travel -- Italy; Italy -- Description and travel
A daughter of the king, the Princess Christina, has just married her
uncle, the King of Spain, and a frigate is about to sail with a portion
of the royal _trousseau_. I have visited this vessel, which is a pretty
ship, and I feel persuaded that this nation, with its materials, could
it bear the expense in money, might easily become a naval power to
command respect in this sea. The country is all coast, has an uncommonly
fine population, in a physical sense at least, and wants only the moral
qualities necessary to carry out such a plan.
The weather changed soon after we came to Naples, and it has taught us
what is really meant by Neapolitan skies. Until the middle of October, I
had no notion of the extent of their beauty, which, though not
absolutely unknown to us, is of a kind that we know the least. There is
a liquid softness in the atmosphere, during the autumnal months, that
you must have observed, for we are not without it in America. By this,
however, I do not mean, the bright genial days of September and October,
that are vulgarly praised as the marks of a fine autumn, but the state
of the air, which renders every thing soft, and lends prismatic colours,
in particular to the horizon, morning and evening. These colours are
quite unlike the ordinary gorgeousness of an American sunset, being
softer, more varied, and quicker in their transitions. I have often seen
them, in October and November, near the American coast, when at sea, in
latitudes as low as 40°; but they are by no means frequent on shore;
still we have them, though seldom, perhaps never, in the perfection they
are seen here.
You will smile at my old passion for fine skies and landscape scenery,
but I have climbed to the castle of St. Elmo a dozen times within the
last month to see the effect of the sunset. Just as the day disappears,
a soft rosy tint illumines the base of Vesuvius, and all the crowded
objects of the coast, throwing a glow on the broad Campagna that enables
one almost to fancy it another Eden. While these beautiful transitions
are to be seen on the earth, the heavens reflect them, as the cheek of a
young girl reflects the rose in her bosom. Of the hues of the clouds at
such moments, it is impossible to speak clearly, for they appear
supernatural. At one time the whole concave is an arch of pearl; and
this perhaps is succeeded by a blush as soft and as mottled as that of
youth; and then a hundred hues become so blended, that it is scarcely
possible to name or to enumerate them. There is no gorgeousness, no
dazzling of the eye in all this, but a polished softness that wins as
much as it delights the beholder. Certainly, I have never seen sunsets
to compare with these, on shore, before this visit to Naples; though at
sea, in low latitudes, they are more frequent, I allow.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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