Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 2 of 2Cooper, James Fenimore
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Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 2 of 2
Cooper, James Fenimore
Cooper, James Fenimore, 1789-1851 -- Travel -- Italy; Italy -- Description and travel
I believe this is esteemed the second work of its kind now in existence;
that at Lisbon alone ranking before it. I have rarely seen a structure
that has so forcibly impressed me with the sense of its vastness. It is,
in short, literally bridging a valley. We ascended to the road, after
walking under and among the arches, and overlooked a fine view, in the
direction of Naples. The weather had become pleasant, but the recent
rain had set the mists in motion, and we got a glimpse of Italy in a new
character. The valley was not large, but exceedingly pretty; and the
road by which we had come wound through it, passing beneath the centre
of the aqueduct. Our carriages had taken it, and were winding their way
out of the valley, up to our own level, in order to rejoin us. The
effect of the whole was both noble and soft; for the distant bay, Capri,
Vesuvius, and the Campagna, were all bathed in the glories of a fine
sun-light, relieved by fleecy mists. The road on the summit of the
aqueduct is wide enough to receive the equipages of the king, who had
passed over not long before we were there. The trunk for the water was
by no means large.
The route from the aqueduct is very beautiful. It winds among the
mountains and through valleys, and is constructed as a royal drive,
leading merely to the aqueduct. Caserta, as a town, is not large; though
the palace is one of the finest in Europe. The latter stands on a
perfectly level plain, with no other view than can be got from the
windows, and that of the Apennines, which are too near for effect, or
indeed to be seen to advantage, the nearest heights concealing the more
lofty ranges in the distance. This palace is said to owe its existence
to the pride of Charles III., who, irritated at having been menaced by
an English fleet which ran under the walls of his residence in Naples,
and threatened to lay it in ruins unless the demands of its government
were complied with, declared he would build a palace where no insolent
foe could insult him. In this respect, Caserta has certainly the
advantage of both Castel-a-mare and Portici; but this is all, unless the
magnificence of the unfinished structure be included. The gardens,
however, are extensive, and there is probably good shooting in the
mountains.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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