Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 2 of 2Cooper, James Fenimore
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Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 2 of 2
Cooper, James Fenimore
Cooper, James Fenimore, 1789-1851 -- Travel -- Italy; Italy -- Description and travel
Amalfi would seem to have been built for pleasure, for the situation is
beautifully picturesque; though, the beach excepted, and a gorge in the
mountains that permits of a better path than is usual here, were the
only two practical advantages I could discover about its site. You may
imagine the effect of a town of some size, clinging to rocks between
mountains and the sea, with churches, convents, and villas, stuck about
on shelves, according to caprice or accident. These people are the very
opposites of us Americans in their urban economy; for while we level
molehills with the sagacity and zeal of speculators, they perch
themselves on cliffs, and people ravines like poets. We may have the
best of it, considering a house as an _article_, in which a room must
contain but _two_ windows, since the _third_ curtain will prevent its
letting; but they have greatly the best of it, considering a house as a
place, in which one is to indulge in his individuality, and in pleasant
thoughts. I believe we make money faster than any other nation, while we
spend it with less satisfaction. A copy of the lost Pandects of
Justinian was found at Amalfi, in 1137. I wonder where the Pandects of
Trade were found?
As our time was short, we ordered a large boat with six oars, and left
Amalfi within an hour, taking some refreshments with us, the country
changed materially as we approached the head of the gulf, the peaks
becoming lower and less perpendicular, and the shores generally more
accessible. In the direction of Calabria the coast appeared low, the
Apennines retiring inland, though their blue and ridgy outlines were
visible in the haze. A lad who pulled the stroke oar, and who answered
most of our questions, amused us greatly with his _patois_. Signore, he
invariably pronounced like _snore_;—“_S’nore, si; s’nore, no_;”—as you
may suppose, to W——’s great delight.
We found Salerno seated on the strand, with hills behind it, and an
amphitheatre of mountains in their rear, again. It occupies some such
situation on the gulf of Salerno as Naples occupies on her own bay,
though less picturesquely surrounded in some respects, while it is more
so in others. The southern, or rather, the eastern, shore of the gulf,
especially, is comparatively tame, on account of the flat land bounding
the water. The place of our destination was in that direction, still
distant some five-and-twenty or thirty miles. Salerno is little more
than a roadstead, for vessels of any size; though it has a mole of some
extent, behind which smaller craft can lie. The sciroccos have a full
rake into this bay; but against all winds from west northerly, round to
south-east, there is a tolerable protection.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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