Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 2 of 2 — John Shaqi
Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 2 of 2Cooper, James Fenimore
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Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 2 of 2
Cooper, James Fenimore
Cooper, James Fenimore, 1789-1851 -- Travel -- Italy; Italy -- Description and travel
In my eagerness to proceed, I looked neither to the right nor to the
left. We went through crooked and narrow streets, until we came to a
bridge lined with statues. The stream beneath was the Tiber. It was
full, turbid, swift, sinuous, and it might be three hundred feet wide,
or perhaps not quite so wide as the Seine at Paris at the same season.
The difference, however, is not material, and each is about half as wide
as the Thames above London Bridge on a full tide, which is again
three-fourths of the width of the Hudson at Albany. A large round
castellated edifice, with-flanking walls and military bastions, faced
the bridge: this was the tomb of Adrian, converted into a citadel by the
name of the Castle of St. Angelo, an angel in bronze surmounting the
tower. Turning to the left, we followed the river until a street led us
from its windings, and presently I found myself standing at the foot of
a vast square, with colonnades on a gigantic scale sweeping in half
circles on each side of me, two of the most beautiful fountains I had
ever seen throwing their waters in sheets down their sides between them,
and the façade of St. Peter’s forming the background. A noble Egyptian
obelisk occupied the centre of the area.
Every one had told me I should be disappointed in the apparent magnitude
of this church, but I was not. To me it seemed the thing it is, possibly
because some pains had been taken to school the eye. Switzerland often
misled me in both heights and distances, but a ship or an edifice rarely
does so. Previously to seeing Switzerland, I had found nothing to
compare with such a nature, and all regions previously known offered no
rules to judge by; but I had now seen too many huge structures not to be
at once satisfied that this was the largest of them all.
The laquais would have me stop to admire some of Michael Angelo’s
sublime conceptions, but I pressed forward. Ascending the steps, I threw
out my arms to embrace one of the huge half columns of the façade, not
in a fit of sentimentalism, but to ascertain its diameter, which was
gigantic, and helped the previous impression. Pushing aside the door in
common use, I found myself in the nave of the noblest temple in which
any religious rites were ever celebrated.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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