Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 2 of 2 — John Shaqi
Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 2 of 2Cooper, James Fenimore
General
Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 2 of 2
Cooper, James Fenimore
Cooper, James Fenimore, 1789-1851 -- Travel -- Italy; Italy -- Description and travel
Eboli is a small crowded town, lying against an acclivity, at the foot
of the Apennines, and is crowned by the castle, which occupies, as was
usual in the middle ages, the highest site. The place is walled, and the
streets are rather rapid and irregular. Most of the ancient castle has
disappeared, though a few towers remain; but, in its stead, a spacious
and comfortable hunting-seat has been erected. We entered a spacious
court, and were conducted by a private way to a large sala, in which a
fire was lighted in a brazier placed in the chimney. Around this we
gladly gathered, for the cool air of the Apennines was beginning to
chill us. A supper was prepared, and we were furnished with good beds
and excellent rooms. All was done with great assiduity, and with a
profound desire to do credit to the lord of Eboli; two or three servants
remaining always in the castle, whither, however, the owner seldom
comes, and then only to pass a few days.
In the morning I rose betimes, and went out on a terrace to look at the
scenery, for the darkness had hid every thing from observation the
previous night. The elevation of the castle gave it a commanding view,
and we were enabled to see most of the country through which we were to
travel to reach Pæstum, then distant from us twelve miles.
Eboli stands on the verge of the great plain that stretches leagues
along the sea at this place. This country was probably once fertile,
and, of course, healthful, like the Campagna of Rome, or it never would
have been occupied as the site of such a town as Pæstum. It is now
nearly deserted; though there are a few hunting seats scattered about
its surface, which may be occupied in the cool months. Among others is
Persano, a house belonging to the king, and which was much frequented by
the late sporting monarch, Don Francesco. The sea was visible in the
distance; and the site of Pæstum might also be discerned, across a wide
reach of plain. This plain was much covered with small trees in the
foreground, though it was more naked nearer to the sea.
After breakfast we left the castle of Eboli, grateful for its
hospitality, and very sensible of the politeness by which it had been
accorded. The road, for some distance, was beautiful; but it gradually
led us upon the plain, where soon little was visible besides bushes.
Persano was passed, lying on our left; and then, for miles, it was a
country that, while it was not positively pleasant, offered nothing that
was positively disagreeable.
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