Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 2 of 2Cooper, James Fenimore
General
Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 2 of 2
Cooper, James Fenimore
Cooper, James Fenimore, 1789-1851 -- Travel -- Italy; Italy -- Description and travel
Near this mount, the port is seen; vessels ascending the Tiber, from the
sea, as far as this. But for the bridges, they might go even higher;
though it would be without a sufficient object.
We will now descend, and pursue our way homeward, along the foot of the
Aventine Hill. In the portico of the convent church which we pass, you
may see the arms and name of the patron cardinal, or the dignitary under
whose protection the establishment has placed itself. This is the old
system of patron and client continued to the present day; a system which
belongs to aristocracy, and must exist, in some shape or other, wherever
the strong and the weak are found in contact. I have heard of countries
in modern Europe in which the tribute of the clients forms no small
portion of the revenue of the patrons. In England itself, we have seen
Indian Rajahs returning members to parliament by means of their gold; in
France, the king’s mistresses, for a long time, had a monopoly of this
species of power; and in several of the other great powers that have
dependencies, I hear it whispered that the system still prevails to a
great extent. In America, the clients are the nation; and the patrons
the demagogues, under the name of patriots. If, however, our
discontented, the salt of the earth in their own imagination, had a
taste of the abuses of this hemisphere, they would gladly return to
their own, bad as they are.
When at Naples, I was told an anecdote of the good old King Ferdinando,
which is in point. His generals were deliberating on a new uniform for
the army, when the honest old prince, tired of the delay, and anxious to
get at his game again, exclaimed—“Ah, Signori, dress them as you please,
they will run away.” I do not repeat this because I believe the
Neapolitans are cowards, for I think them traduced in this respect, but
because it is with politics as in war, “dress men as you will, they are
still that godlike-devil man.”
Objects crowd upon us in too great numbers now, and we will ride into
the Via Ripetta and dismount, leaving the rest for another excursion.
LETTER XXIII.
The Tiber.—Monte Mario.—Milvian Bridge.—Bridge of Nomentanus.—The
Sacred Mount; Apologue of Menenius Agrippa.—City
Walls.—Amphitheatre.—Santa Scala.—The Lateran.—Works of the Empire
and the Republic contrasted.—The Coliseum.—Via Sacra.—The Capitoline
Hill.—The Palatine.—Imperial Palace.—The Forum.—Arch of Septimius
Severus.—Column of Phocas.—The Capitol.—Statue of M.
Aurelius.—Columns of Trajan and Antoninus.—The Pantheon.
In my last, I took you round the walls, an excursion I make weekly, for
the road is excellent, and almost every foot of the way offers something
of interest. We will now turn in another direction, which, if not so
interesting as regards antiquities, may amuse you, by giving you better
and more precise ideas of the region in which Rome stood nearly three
thousand years since, and stands to-day.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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