Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 2 of 2Cooper, James Fenimore
General
Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 2 of 2
Cooper, James Fenimore
Cooper, James Fenimore, 1789-1851 -- Travel -- Italy; Italy -- Description and travel
We will quit the city by the same gate as before; but, instead of
inclining to the right, let us take the opposite direction, which brings
us, within a hundred yards, to the banks of the Tiber.
If you feel the same sensation that I did, on finding yourself riding
along the shores of this classical stream, your seat in the saddle will
be elastic, and you will feel a double enjoyment at galloping in a pure
air and under a serene sky. You know the size of this river already, and
I will merely add that, in the winter and spring, it is turbid, rapid,
and apt to overflow its banks, particularly in the town, for at the
place where we now are, these banks are perhaps ten feet above the
surface of the water. It is thought the bed of the river has been
materially raised by _débris_ within the walls, and projects have even
been entertained for turning the water, with a view to discoveries.
As boats sometimes ascend, there is a towing-track, which, though little
used, is a reasonably good bridle-path, the equestrians keeping this
track beaten. As the stream is as meandering as our own Susquehanna, it
presents many pretty glimpses; though the nakedness of the Campagna
(which, north of Rome, while more waving and broken than farther south,
is almost destitute of any other herbage than grass and a few bushes,)
prevents the scenery from being absolutely beautiful. Still every turn
of the river is pregnant with recollections, and one can hardly look
amiss in quest of an historical site.
The eminence on the opposite side of the stream, that shows steep
acclivities at its eastern and southern faces, and up which a road winds
its way by the south-western ascent, is Monte Mario, a hill that
overlooks Rome, very much as Montmartre overlooks Paris. The half-ruined
country-house that stands against its eastern side is the Villa Madama,
so termed from having been built by Margaret of Austria, a daughter of
Charles V. from whom it has descended to the family of Naples. The house
on the summit is the property of the Falonieri, the present owners of
the mount. What a thing it is to own a Roman site! and what a cockneyism
to convert it into a dandy residence,—a “half-horse, half-alligator”
ruin!
After riding a little more than a mile, we reach the Milvian Bridge, a
portion of which is ancient. We will not cross at this spot, so
celebrated for the battle fought by Constantine near it, but pursue our
way up the side of the stream, on which we still are. Crossing the
highway, then, (the ancient Flaminian Way,) we continue our course up
the river, which just here has been the scene of a melancholy event, of
no distant occurrence. The horse of a young Englishwoman backed off the
steep bank, and falling over her, she was drowned. What has rendered
this calamity more striking, was the fate of her father, who is said to
have left a post-house in the mountains, on foot, while travelling, and
has never since been found.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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