Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 2 of 2Cooper, James Fenimore
General
Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 2 of 2
Cooper, James Fenimore
Cooper, James Fenimore, 1789-1851 -- Travel -- Italy; Italy -- Description and travel
The palaces around this square belong to the great families of Piombino,
Chigi, &c., and have thirteen or fifteen windows in a row, besides being
built around courts. The square near, with an unequal little eminence
and an obelisk, is called Citorio. The eminence is caused by the ruins
of an amphitheatre. The obelisk, which Pliny attributes to Sesostris(!)
was brought from Egypt by Augustus. It was placed in the Campus Martius,
and found there as lately as in 1748.
We will now wend our way through narrow and crowded streets, for a short
distance, until we come out in another square of a very different
character. We find it filled with market people, dirty, and far from
attractive; although there is an obelisk in its centre. On the side
opposite to that by which we enter it, however, is an edifice, that, as
a second look shows, possesses a strange mixture of beauty and
deformity. Its form is round: though the adjoining buildings prevent
this circumstance from being immediately seen. It has a noble portico,
with a fine row of columns, but a tympanum which is altogether too
heavy. Two little belfries peep out, like asses’ ears, at each side of
the portico, in a way to make a spectator laugh, while he wonders at the
man who devised them did not stick them on his own head. An inscription
on the cornice causes us to start; for we see in large letters, M.
AGRIPPA, L. F. COS. TERTIVM. FECIT. This, then, is the Pantheon!
You will be disappointed with the _coup d’œil_ of this celebrated
structure, as well as I was myself. You will probably find the building
too low, the appliances of the square unseemly, the manner in which the
building is surrounded by houses oppressive, the _ears_ too long, and,
above all, the Roman heaviness of the pediment but a poor substitute for
the grace and lightness of the Grecian architecture of the same form. It
is thought that the body of the building and the portico are not of the
same period. The inscription speaks for itself; and the last, at least,
it is fair to infer, was erected about the year 727 of Rome, or a short
time previously to the birth of Christ.
On entering the building, it is impossible not to be struck by its
simple and beautiful grandeur. A vast vaulted rotunda, of solid stone,
without a basement, and lighted by a graceful opening that permits a
view of the firmament, are things so novel, so beautiful, not to say
sublime, that one forgets the defects of the exterior. This idea is one
of the most magnificent of its kind that exists in architecture. The
opening, a circular hole in the top, admits sufficient light, and the
eye, after scanning the noble vault, seeks this outlet, and penetrates
the blue void of infinite space. Here is, at once, a suitable physical
accompaniment to the mind, and the aid of one of the most far-reaching
of our senses is enlisted on the side of omnipotence, infinite majesty
and perfect beauty. Illimitable space is the best prototype of eternity.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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