Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 2 of 2Cooper, James Fenimore
General
Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 2 of 2
Cooper, James Fenimore
Cooper, James Fenimore, 1789-1851 -- Travel -- Italy; Italy -- Description and travel
I believe the vulgar notion that the Pantheon was dedicated to _all_ the
gods is erroneous. It is a better opinion, it would seem, to suppose
that it was dedicated to a few gods, in whom _all_ or many of the divine
_attributes_ are assembled. This, after all, is begging the question, as
the gods themselves, it is fair to presume, represented merely so many
different attributes of infinite power and excellence. The niches are
not sufficient to hold many statues, and there probably never were
statues in the building to one half the deities of Rome.
One of the principal external faults of this edifice, as it is now seen,
must not be ascribed to its architecture. Its majesty is impaired by its
want of height; but it has been ascertained that eight steps anciently
existed in front of the portico, in place of the two which are now seen.
The diameter of the rotunda is 132 Roman feet; and this is the edifice,
as you know, that Michael Angelo boasted he would raise into the air, as
a cupola for St. Peter’s. He has raised there something very like it.
Since the year 608 the Pantheon has virtually been a Christian church.
There is a long period during which it is not mentioned; but it is fair
to presume, it has always preserved its present character since the year
just mentioned. At one time the palace of the popes adjoined this
temple, and then it served as their private chapel.
We will not return to the Corso, but, winding our way out of this maze
of streets, return home by the Via Ripetta. The huge palace we pass near
the river, in the shape of a harpsichord, is that of the Borghese
family, and it is at present occupied by the Prince Aldobrandini, the
brother of Don Camillo, who married the sister of Napoleon. It is a huge
edifice, with courts, and is worthy to be a royal abode. Still, it is by
no means the best house in Rome; but he who has not seen this town, or
rather Italy, can form no just idea of magnificence in this part of
life.
LETTER XXIV.
Mode of living, and uncleanliness of houses, unjustly
censured.—Palazzo Borghese.—State of Society.—Cecisbeism.—Females of
Rome.—Higher and lower classes of Italians.—The English
disliked.—Hopes of advancing Romanism in America.—Religious bigotry
diminished.—Disrespect of Protestants in attending the Singing at
St. Peter’s.—Buffoonery of Servants of a Cardinal at
devotion.—Magnificence of Church Architecture.—Roof of St.
Peter’s.—The Lateran.—The Vatican.—Frescoes of Raphael.—Celebrated
Pictures.—Statuary.—The Apollo, and the Laocoon.—Fresco by Michael
Angelo.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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