Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 2 of 2Cooper, James Fenimore
General
Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 2 of 2
Cooper, James Fenimore
Cooper, James Fenimore, 1789-1851 -- Travel -- Italy; Italy -- Description and travel
The history of Pæstum is not very well settled. It is popularly said to
have been built by a colony of marine adventurers, who named the place
after their own particular god, Neptune.[1] The temples that remain are
certainly of very remote antiquity; probably little less ancient, if
any, than the Pyramids of Egypt. The Romans got possession of the place,
of course, and Augustus is said to have visited the very temples that
are now standing, as specimens of ancient architecture! The Saracens
destroyed the town about a thousand years since, and it has lain the
whole of the intervening time virtually a waste. So completely was the
place forgotten and lost, that, standing on the coast, and at no great
distance from what must have been the great road into Calabria, since
the time of Appius Claudius, at least, its site was unknown to the
reading and travelling portion of mankind, until the year 1755, when a
painter of Naples, who was out sketching from nature, blundered on the
ruins, and brought them into notice. This sounds extraordinary in the
ears of an American; but a little explanation removes half the causes of
wonder.
Footnote 1:
Ποσειδων.
In the first place, Pæstum, though it stands within a mile of the sea,
lies on the eastern side of the gulf of Salerno, and away from the track
of all but the small vessels of the adjoining country. The temples are
not high, and when first seen by the painter, were said to have been
nearly buried in vines and trees. A common Italian is so much accustomed
to see ruins, that the peasants of the neighbourhood would not be struck
by their existence; things to which we have been habituated appearing
always as things of course, and occasioning no surprise. Besides, Pæstum
was never a place much noted in history, but is principally remarkable
for containing a rare specimen of architecture in its ruder state, and
for the durability of its works. Perhaps the ruins, concealed in tangled
brakes, required the keen eye and cultivated tastes of an artist, to
attract the attention necessary to draw them from obscurity. How many
hunters, land surveyors, and even land speculators, saw the Falls of
Trenton before they wore spoken of beyond their own neighbourhood! I can
well recollect the time when I first heard of them as a thing that would
well repay the trouble of walking a mile or two to see; and yet it may
be questioned if all Europe has a cascade that so well merits a
visit;—certainly it has not more than one or two, if it has any.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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